How to Catch Blue Swimmer Crab: Complete Guide to Techniques, Gear, and Locations

Opening Statement: This in-depth guide is designed for Australian anglers who want to master catching the Blue Swimmer Crab in detail. We’ll cover everything from species identification and behavior to habitats, seasonal patterns, optimal gear, effective techniques, and proper handling. By understanding how these crabs live and feed – and by using the right equipment and methods – you can consistently succeed in catching Blue Swimmer Crabs while staying safe and responsible. Whether you’re a beginner or seasoned crabber, this comprehensive guide will provide the knowledge and tips needed to harvest these prized crustaceans successfully.

Species Profile

Quick Identification

Scientific Name & Common Names: The Blue Swimmer Crab’s scientific name is Portunus armatus (formerly Portunus pelagicus). It’s known by various regional names, including blue swimmer, blue manna crab, bluey, sand crab, and flower crab.

• Distinctive Features: Males sport a vivid blue shell with white mottling and long, slender claws, while females are typically duller brown or greenish in color. The carapace (shell) is broad and somewhat flattened, outlined by nine sharp spikes on each side of the eyes – a key ID feature of this species. Blue Swimmer Crabs belong to the swimming crab family (Portunidae) and have a pair of flattened, paddle-like hind legs that act as oars for swimming. These hind “swimmerets” and the bright blue-purple hues of the shell (in males) make them easy to distinguish from other crabs.
• Typical Size: An average adult has a shell width of about 15–17 cm, with large mature males often in the 18–20 cm range. In Western Australia, exceptional specimens can reach up to 25 cm across the carapace with a claw span up to 80 cm. These are big “blueys” by any standard – a crab of that size can weigh close to 1 kg, though most caught crabs weigh around 200–300 g each. All Blue Swimmer Crabs have a relatively short lifespan (typically up to 3 years), meaning they grow fast and can reach harvestable size within their first year. There is sexual dimorphism: males not only are more colorful but also tend to grow larger and have disproportionately longer claws than females.

Why Target This Species

• Catch Difficulty: Blue Swimmer Crabs are generally considered beginner-friendly for recreational fishing. They are relatively easy to gather with basic equipment, especially compared to more challenging crustaceans like mud crabs. You don’t need a boat or advanced angling skills – many are caught from piers or by wading in shallows. That said, they can still put up a bit of a “scrap” when you’re trying to bag them, and their claws demand respect. With a few technique tips (covered in this guide), even first-timers can reliably catch blue swimmers. The activity is also family-friendly and fun, making it a great way to introduce newcomers to fishing.

• Culinary Value: This species is highly prized for its sweet, delicate meat. Blue Swimmer Crabs are a dinnertime favorite across Australia and are often considered one of the tastiest seafood delights in southern waters. Their bodies and claws yield tender white flesh that is excellent for salads, pastas, crab cakes, or simply eaten straight from the shell. Because they’re smaller than mud crabs, it can take a few to make a meal, but the flavor is well worth the effort. The strong culinary demand (both commercial and recreational) for “blueys” means that catching your own can be very rewarding – nothing beats a fresh feed of crab you caught that morning.
• Sport and Enjoyment: While crabs don’t fight on a fishing line like a fish would, there is plenty of sport in crabbing. The challenge comes from locating them, enticing them with bait, and scooping or netting them before they escape. Many anglers enjoy the strategic and hands-on nature of crabbing – whether it’s the patience of running crab pots or the excitement of spotting and scooping them in shallow water. It’s a relaxing yet engaging form of fishing that often results in a delicious payoff.
• Best Time of Year: In Australia, Blue Swimmer Crabs are most active and abundant in the warmer months. Late spring, summer, and early autumn are peak season in most regions. For example, in southern Australia (South Australia, southern WA, NSW), the prime crabbing season runs approximately October through April when water temperatures rise and crabs move into the shallows. During this period, catches are highest and the crabs tend to be fuller (not recently molted). In winter, their activity drops off significantly – many crabs hunker down or move to deeper waters, making them harder to find. So while you can catch some year-round in certain areas, targeting them in summer and early autumn will yield the best results and the least effort.

Behavior and Feeding

Understanding how Blue Swimmer Crabs behave and feed is the key to catching them consistently. This section dives into their daily patterns and diet – knowledge that will directly inform your tactics on the water.

Hunting Pattern

As the tide recedes, they often drop back into deeper channels or bury in sediment to avoid exposure. If you’re using traps or nets from a boat or jetty, setting them around the top half of the tide cycle (mid-tide to high tide) often yields more crabs. Conversely, if you’re wading and raking on foot, the lower tide (mid to low) can be better since it concentrates crabs in the remaining water and allows you to access the flats.

• Ambush vs. Foraging: Blue Swimmer Crabs employ both ambush predation and active foraging. When buried in sand during the day, they are in ambush mode – if a fish or shrimp wanders too close, they will burst out of hiding and grab it. At night, they switch to active foraging mode – you might see them swimming or scuttling over the bottom as they search for food. They are capable swimmers (thanks to those paddle-like hind legs) and can cover ground quickly in search of a meal. This dual hunting strategy means you could encounter them either by disturbing their hiding spots (e.g. raking the sand in daylight) or by intercepting them while they’re out prowling (e.g. baited traps at night).
• Solitary vs. Group Behavior: Blue Swimmer Crabs do not form schools or large social clusters in the way fish might. They are generally solitary hunters, each crab going about its own business. In good habitat, however, many individuals may be found in proximity simply because the conditions are favorable (food-rich seagrass bed, etc.). During mating season in autumn, males and females will pair up (a male will carry a female under him for several days), but aside from that, you won’t see coordinated group behavior. In fact, adult males can be somewhat territorial, especially in cooler waters – they tend to space themselves out and you rarely find big males right next to each other. This means when you catch one crab, there may or may not be another in the immediate area; you often have to prospect around to find pockets of them. The solitary nature also implies that each trap or bait generally lures crabs individually, rather than drawing a whole school at once (though if you find a hot spot, you can certainly catch multiple crabs in one area in a short time).

Primary Diet

Main Food Sources: Blue Swimmer Crabs are voracious omnivores, with a strong predatory streak. Their diet in the wild consists largely of small fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and worms. They will prey on things like minnows and baitfish, shrimp and prawns, small crabs, clams, pipis and scallops, marine worms – essentially any smaller animal they can catch or scavenge. They have powerful claws used for both snatching prey and cracking shells. For example, a blue swimmer might lie in wait under the sand and grab an unwary goby fish, or actively dig in seagrass for snails and clams. They also readily scavenge dead animals; a fish carcass on the bottom will attract blue swimmers to feed. This opportunistic diet is why they respond so well to smelly baits in traps.

Other Dietary Items: While meaty fare makes up the bulk of their diet, Blue Swimmer Crabs do nibble on plant material occasionally. They have been known to eat bits of macroalgae or seagrass, especially when animal prey is scarce. However, vegetation is a minor part of their nutrition – they are not herbivores by any means. The occasional ingestion of algae might even be incidental while chasing other food. Practically speaking, this means crabs are not attracted to non-meat baits; they’re looking for proteins and fats. It’s also worth noting that a blue swimmer’s diet can shift with availability: for instance, if mussels are plentiful on the seafloor, they might gorge on those; if a lot of fish scraps are around (say near a fish cleaning station), they’ll happily clean them up. They truly are the “clean-up crew” of the estuary.

How Diet Influences Bait Choice: Knowing that Blue Swimmer Crabs seek out oily, smelly animal matter is crucial for bait selection. The best baits are therefore natural fish or seafood products that mimic their prey or typical scavenger finds. For example, crabbers often use fish heads or frames (leftover skeletons) from species like mullet, tuna, salmon, or whiting, because the strong scent draws crabs from afar. The crabs’ love of crustaceans and mollusks suggests that things like prawn heads, squid pieces, or even clam meat would be effective – and indeed they are. Essentially, if it’s fresh (or slightly old) and smelly seafood, a Blue Swimmer Crab will investigate it. One reason chicken is also a famously good bait (despite chickens not being marine!) is that raw chicken emits an enticing odor and has a tough texture that crabs latch onto – it serves as a durable proxy for fish meat. In short, when preparing your gear, think like a hungry crab: use baits that bleed oils or juices into the water to trigger their feeding response. We’ll detail specific bait recommendations in the Gear and Techniques section, but the key principle is that a crab’s palate is broad – they’ll sample just about any protein they can find, so you have flexibility in bait as long as it smells appetizing (to a crab, that is).

Where and When to Find Them

This section translates crab behavior into practical location and timing tips. Blue Swimmer Crabs aren’t everywhere at once – they have preferred habitats and seasonal movements. By zeroing in on where they hang out and planning your trips for when they’re most available, you’ll greatly improve your success. We’ll look at their favored habitats, seasonal migration patterns, and the optimal conditions (tides, weather, etc.) for crabbing.

Key Habitat

Preferred Environment: Blue Swimmer Crabs thrive in shallow, sheltered coastal waters. They are commonly found in estuaries, bays, and lower reaches of coastal rivers. These areas provide the calmer waters and abundant food sources that crabs prefer. Key habitats include sandy or muddy bottoms, often interspersed with seagrass meadows. Seagrass beds in particular are magnets for blue swimmers – the grass beds harbor plenty of prey (small fish, mollusks, etc.) and also give the crabs some cover. You’ll also find them on open sand flats, in tidal channels, around mangrove fringes, and even offshore on sandy seabeds out to moderate depths. They tend to avoid rocky reefs or areas with heavy kelp, because those spots often harbor octopuses (a major crab predator) and fewer of the burrowing prey crabs like. So, as a rule of thumb, focus on soft-bottom habitats: if the seafloor is sand or mud and relatively flat, that’s prime crabbing ground. In Australia, iconic blue swimmer locations include places like the Peel-Harvey Estuary and Swan River in WA, the broad Gulf St. Vincent tidal flats in SA, coastal lakes and estuaries of NSW, and the bays of southern Queensland – all characterized by those soft bottoms and seagrass or sand flats.

High-Proficiency Zones (Hotspots): While blue swimmers are found all around the Australian coastline (from tropical north to temperate south), certain regions are notorious hotspots for abundance. If you’re looking for reliable action, it helps to know these areas:

• Southern & Western Australia: The populations in South Australia and southern Western Australia are especially strong. For instance, Gulf St. Vincent and Spencer Gulf (SA) have huge tidal flats where locals go “crabbing” every summer – spots like Semaphore, Ardrossan, Stansbury, Port Vincent, Wallaroo, and Moonta are well-known for blue swimmer crabs wading and netting. In WA, Peel-Harvey Estuary (Mandurah) and the Swan/Canning River system near Perth are famous for crabs, as are Shark Bay, Geographe Bay, and estuaries along the west coast. These areas combine the right habitat (extensive seagrass beds, sand flats) with healthy crab stocks.
• New South Wales: On the east coast, blue swimmers (often called “sand crabs” there) are common in coastal lakes and estuaries from about Sydney northwards. For example, Botany Bay, Port Jackson (Sydney Harbour), Pittwater and the Hawkesbury River, and Lake Macquarie see seasonal runs of blue swimmers. Farther north, Wallis Lake, the Clarence River, and Moreton Bay (QLD) also have them. In NSW the crabs don’t usually get as large as their southern/WA cousins (warmer water means faster growth but not always as beefy), but they’re plentiful in summer.
• Tropical Areas: In Queensland’s tropics and the Northern Territory, Blue Swimmer Crabs are present but somewhat less targeted, partly because the bigger mud crab dominates the mangrove habitats. Still, blue swimmers can be found around sandy bays and reef lagoons even in tropical waters – just not in the huge numbers seen down south. For instance, Cleveland Bay (Townsville) or Darwin Harbour might have some blue swimmers on the fringes, but most northern crabbers chase mud crabs instead. So, for practical purposes, the best blue swimmer crabbing is generally in the southern half of Australia – roughly from southern Queensland down and around to WA’s mid-coast. In these regions, look for the specific habitat features mentioned (sandy shallows, estuary mouths, etc.), and you’ll be in the right zone.

Fishing Calendar

Best Time of Year: Blue Swimmer Crab fishing in Australia is highly seasonal. The consensus is that the warm months are the prime months. As water temperatures rise in late spring (October-November), crabs become more active and start moving into shallower feeding grounds. Summer (December through February) is typically the peak of the season, with crabs abundant and readily caught. The season often extends into autumn (March and April) while the water is still warm, though catch rates may start to taper off as crabs begin to move to deeper areas. In many areas, January and February are the absolute height of blue swimmer activity – it’s not uncommon to easily get your bag limit on a good day during this period. By late autumn and winter (May–August), the water cools and crabs either burrow and go dormant or migrate to areas we can’t easily reach (deeper offshore waters). For example, in South Australia, most locals pack away the crab nets by late April and wait until next spring, as the winter water in the gulfs is too cold for much crabbing. In Western Australia, certain fisheries close in winter to protect the stock when they’re less active (e.g. Peel-Harvey is closed Sept 1 to Oct 31, covering the late winter/early spring period). So, planning your crabbing trips in the Australian summer will align with when nature puts the odds in your favor.

Seasonal Movements: Blue Swimmer Crabs undergo seasonal migrations driven by temperature and breeding needs. In temperate regions (southern Australia), adults typically move into shallow inshore waters during the warmer months (roughly September to April). They take advantage of the warmth and food-rich shallows to feed and grow. When the weather turns cold (May onward), there is a mass migration to deeper, more stable waters offshore or into deeper channels. For instance, crabs in an estuary may start leaving en masse with the first winter chill or heavy rains, heading to the open ocean or the mouth of the estuary. This is a survival tactic: deeper water remains a bit warmer and more stable in winter, and it also is where many large females will later spawn. In many places you can practically predict it: as soon as early winter arrives, the “blueys” vanish from the flats where they were common a month before. They’ll return again by next spring once conditions improve. In tropical areas (far north QLD, NT), this movement is less pronounced by temperature and more by wet/dry season influences – heavy freshwater flooding in the wet season (summer) can push crabs out of estuaries temporarily, whereas the dry season (winter up north) actually has a lot of crabs around. For example, the Northern Territory’s blue swimmer catch peaks around February–June, which corresponds to the transition out of the wet season. Always consider local patterns: check with state fisheries info for seasonal closed periods or typical peak catch reports. Many southern fisheries also have a late spring closure to protect spawning crabs (e.g. WA’s Cockburn Sound closure, Peel-Harvey closure in Sep/Oct). These closures hint at when crabs are spawning and should be left alone. Generally, late spring through summer is breeding and heavy feeding time – great for fishing – and winter is their recuperation time in deeper water.

Water Temperature and Crab Activity: Water temperature is a critical factor in crab behavior. Blue Swimmer Crabs are cold-blooded, so their activity levels are directly tied to how warm the water is. As a rule, once water temps drop below ~18–20°C, blue swimmer activity declines sharply (they become sluggish and stop feeding heavily). That’s why catches drop in winter – they’re simply not moving around much when it’s cold. Conversely, when water temps are in the mid-20s °C, the crabs are in prime feeding and molting mode. In the temperate southern waters, the crabs have adapted to make the most of the summer warmth: they grow and reproduce during the summer when temperatures resemble those of the tropics. The timing of their life cycle (molting, mating, spawning) is synced to the summer peak. For anglers, this means that beyond just the calendar date, you should pay attention to actual water temperature trends. An unusually cold spring might delay the start of good crabbing, for instance. Or a warmer-than-usual autumn could extend it. If you have a way to know the water temp (many fishing apps or local reports provide this), look for that sweet spot – generally 20°C and up – for active crabs. If it’s mid-summer, this is usually a given. If you’re on the cusp seasons, say October or April, a thermometer can confirm if it’s worth setting the nets. In summary: temperature drives the crab calendar, so work with the heat.

Moon Phase Considerations: Some crab fishers also pay attention to the lunar cycle. It’s often thought that around the full moon, crabs do a lot of molting (shedding shells) and might be a bit less interested in feeding (or they may be “soft” and hiding during the immediate post-molt). On the other hand, a lot of people swear by crabbing on a dark moon or new moon when tides are smaller (easier to crab in some areas) and crabs seem hungrier. The science isn’t settled on moon effects, but it’s something to consider – if nothing else, be aware that if you catch a lot of soft-shelled crabs (which have little meat) it might be just after a molting period often tied to lunar cycles. Some experienced crabbers will throw back soft ones (and any egg-bearing females) and only keep hard, meaty crabs – a practice we also encourage for sustainability and quality reasons.

Optimal Conditions

• Tides: As mentioned, tide can make or break a crabbing session. The most productive tides for blue swimmers tend to be rising and high tides. On a rising tide, water floods onto the flats and into estuary shallows, carrying the scent of your bait farther and bringing in crabs that were waiting in deeper water. Many anglers report best catches in the hour before and after high tide. This is a prime window when crabs are actively foraging over newly inundated ground. In contrast, slack low tide can be less active – crabs often hunker down when the water is very low (plus you can’t deploy nets in areas that are nearly dry). That said, if you’re raking on foot, you will actually target around low tide simply for practical access, but you might focus on the last part of the outgoing tide and the first part of the incoming. During these times, water movement is minimal (easier wading), and any crabs left on the flats are concentrated in the remaining pools. If using drop nets from a pier or boat, try to time your outing so you can have gear in the water through the high tide period. Also consider tide strength: extremely large tidal ranges (new/full moon tides) can create fast currents that might drag lightweight traps or make it hard to stay over your gear. In such cases, moderate tides or using heavier gear can help. In summary, plan for moving water but not ripping currents, and if possible, let the incoming tide work for you by bringing crabs toward your position.
• Time of Day: Blue Swimmer Crabs don’t have great vision, and they rely on smell and touch, so daylight vs darkness is not as critical to them as it is to, say, sight-hunting fish. However, since they naturally become more active at night, night-time crabbing can be extremely productive. Many crabbers set their nets in late evening and pull them after dark, or go wading with lamps at night to literally spot crabs crawling around. If you’re comfortable and it’s legal/safe to do so, consider an evening or pre-dawn crabbing session for potentially higher yields. In some popular spots, night can also mean less competition from other fishers. That said, plenty of crabs are caught in daylight, especially in peak season. Early morning is another excellent time – a lot of folks will drop nets at first light and often find crabs that moved in overnight. Late afternoon near dusk can similarly see a spike in crab activity. Midday on a bright, hot day might slow things a bit (crabs could retreat to shade under weed or bury in sand to avoid overhead light), but if the tide is high in midday, you can still do well. A good strategy: combine factors – e.g. a high tide that coincides with dawn or dusk would be an ideal scenario to target.
• Weather Conditions: Ideal crabbing weather is typically warm, calm, and stable. Because you’re often working small boats or wading in shallow water, calm wind and flat seas make the job easier (and safer). Crabs themselves don’t mind a bit of chop, but rough conditions can stir up silt reducing water clarity (making it harder to spot them by sight) and can also tangle or move your gear. So, look for days with light winds if possible, especially if you plan to rake or scoop in the shallows. Temperature-wise, hot summer days get crabs moving, but ironically some of the best wading can be on very warm days after the sun goes down, when the shallow water is still warm from the sun. Sunny vs cloudy: Overcast skies can extend the crabs’ shallow foraging a bit into daytime since it’s slightly darker (which they prefer), whereas bright sun might push them to bury a bit more in daylight. However, sun also warms the water, so it’s a trade-off. In practice, many crabbers do well on a clear, calm morning after a series of warm days – the crabs have had time to get active. Rain and freshwater: One condition to be wary of is heavy rain or significant freshwater influx. A big rainfall can lower the salinity in an estuary, which Blue Swimmer Crabs do not tolerate well for long. They will often emigrate en masse from estuaries to the sea after heavy rains. After a flood, you might find crabs at the mouth of a river or out along the beaches rather than back in the brackish estuary. Also, rain tends to cool the water. So, if there’s been a major weather event, you may need to adjust where you search (perhaps more toward ocean entrances or slightly deeper). On the flip side, a little rain or a passing summer storm can sometimes trigger movement without fully chasing crabs away – just be mindful of safety with lightning if you’re out on the water. In summary, the best conditions are a string of warm, dry days with mild winds, and planning your trip on one of those days during favorable tide and time windows. The more stable the environment (no recent cold snaps or floods), the more predictable the crabs’ presence will be.

Gear and Techniques

Now we’ll get into the nuts and bolts of catching Blue Swimmer Crabs. This section covers recommended gear setups and specific techniques that work best. Crabbing gear can range from simple handlines to specialized traps, and your approach might vary whether you’re on a boat, a pier, or walking the flats. We’ll also highlight the baits that crabs can’t resist and step-by-step methods for both trap fishing and hand capture. By the end of this section, you’ll know exactly what equipment to pack and how to use it to maximize your crab catch.

Recommended Setup

• Primary Gear – Drop Nets from Boat or Pier: The most common and effective gear for Blue Swimmer Crabs is a drop net setup (also called hoop nets or crab pots, depending on design). This is a collapsible circular net that lies flat on the seabed with bait in the center. Here’s what a good setup includes:
  • Drop Nets: Use round crab nets about 0.9 to 1.2 m in diameter (some states allow up to 1.5 m, but around 1 m is easier to handle). There are various styles: two-ring hoop nets, fold-up pyramid traps, or “witches’ hats” (cone nets). For Blue Swimmers, open two-ring hoop nets or witches’ hats tend to work well, as they allow crabs to walk onto the net from any side. Ensure your nets are in good condition with no large holes.
  • Rope and Float: Attach each net to about 10–20 m of sturdy rope (length depending on depth – you want plenty of slack for tidal movement). At the end of the rope, use a clearly visible float or buoy. A common DIY float is an empty white plastic milk bottle, which is cheap and highly visible. The float not only marks the net’s position for you (and others) but is required by law in many areas to identify recreational gear. Pro tip: label your floats with your name or gear ID as per local regulations.
  • Bait Attachment: Secure your bait at the center of the net using a bait clip or bait bag. A bait clip is a simple metal clip you can tie the bait to, while a bait bag can be made from mesh (even a piece of old mosquito net or stocking) that holds the bait. Using a bait bag is smart because it slows down bait theft by small fish and keeps the bait in place longer. You can make one by putting your bait in a mesh pouch and fastening it with a clothes peg or small wire ties to the net.
  • The Rationale: This drop-net setup allows you to cover a good area and passively catch crabs. You can deploy multiple nets (often 5–10 nets per person is allowed, depending on local rules) to increase your chances. The idea is simple: the bait’s scent disperses in the water, crabs scurry over and climb onto the net to feed, and after giving them some time, you quickly haul the net up, capturing any crabs on it. The wide, flat profile of the net means crabs are literally standing on it as they eat, so as long as you pull up fast, they have a hard time escaping. This gear is effective, relatively inexpensive, and doesn’t require constant attention (you can be doing something else for 10–15 minutes while the net “soaks”). It’s the go-to method for boaters and pier anglers targeting blue swimmers.
• Alternative Setup – Wading and Raking (Shore Method): In areas where shallow flats are accessible, an exciting alternative is walking the shallows to catch crabs by hand or with a rake/scoop net. This method is popular in places like South Australia’s gulf beaches. Key gear for this approach:
  • Crab Rake or Scoop Net: A crab rake is a long-handled tool with a flat, broad pronged fork at the end, used to feel and scoop crabs out of the sand. Essentially, you walk along and rake the sandy bottom until you hit a crab, then flip it onto the shore or into a net. If rakes are not allowed or available, a hand-held crab scoop net works too – this is a wire or plastic mesh net with a rigid round frame (typically ~30–40 cm diameter) and a long handle. The mesh on a proper crab scoop is rigid and not too deep so the crab can’t get tangled badly. Check your local regs: for instance, SA allows raking (it’s a tradition there), whereas WA has banned crab rakes (only hand or scoop nets allowed). Either way, you need something to catch or pick up the crab in shallow water – choose a tool that you can maneuver quickly.
  • Protective Gear: If you’re wading, wear sturdy footwear. Ankle boots or neoprene reef shoes will protect you from stepping on sharp shells, spines, or even the crabs themselves. In some areas there can be stingrays on the flats, so the “shuffle” technique (shuffling your feet to scare rays away) plus good boots is wise. For deeper wading or cold conditions, chest waders are fantastic – they’ll keep you dry and warm, extending your time out there. Also consider a pair of heavy gloves (at least to wear when handling the crabs once caught) to guard against cuts and pincers.
  • Floating Storage & Tools: Many wading crabbers use a floating tub or basket tied to their waist to store the catch. This can be a small esky (cooler) that floats or a plastic laundry basket rigged with foam for buoyancy. The idea is you don’t want to trek back to shore for every crab; instead, tow your “keeper basket” with you. Inside, have some cool seawater or wet seaweed so the crabs stay alive and calm. Also carry your measuring gauge (to check legal size as you go) and some rubber bands or zip-ties to immobilize claws of any crabs you keep (simply wrap a band around each claw’s “elbow” joint to keep them from nipping).
  • Headlamp or Hand Light: If you go at night (often the best time for wading), a good waterproof headlamp is essential. Crabs’ eyes will reflect light, so a bright headlamp or spotlight helps you literally spot them in the water. In daytime, polarized sunglasses can help cut glare to see into the water.
  • Rationale: The wading approach is the most active and engaging way to catch blue swimmers. You become the hunter: stalking through the crab’s terrain, probing the sand or scanning the water for movement. It can be incredibly fun – almost like an easter egg hunt. This method also lets you access very shallow areas where traps can’t be used. It’s especially effective in places where crabs forage on extensive tidal flats. One big advantage is immediacy: you see a crab and catch it right then, rather than waiting and wondering with a net. It’s also inexpensive gear-wise and doesn’t require a boat. The main challenge is you’ve got to cover territory and have sharp reflexes to scoop the crabs before they scoot away. But with practice, it’s a productive technique and a great workout to boot!
• Other Setups – Handlines or Rod-and-Reel: While drop nets and wading are the primary techniques, there are a couple of other methods worth mentioning:
  • Handline and Dip Net: This old-school method uses a simple handline (or fishing rod) with bait and a separate dip net. You tie a large piece of bait (say a fish head or chicken frame) to a sturdy line with a small weight, and lower it to the bottom from a pier or boat. Hold the line in your hand; when you feel tugs or a steady weight, it means a crab is chewing on it. Slowly, ever so gently, retrieve the line hand-over-hand, bringing the crab up toward the surface – the crab will often hold on to the bait firmly as long as the ride is smooth. Once it’s near the surface, you (or a partner) quickly scoop the crab from below with a long-handled dip net. It’s a bit of a cat-and-mouse game, but effective if you only have one or two baits and no traps. A variation is using an old stocking as a bait bag on the line; the crabs get their claws tangled in the fabric which gives you extra time to net them. This technique requires patience but can be surprisingly fun – each nibble on the line gets your heart racing as you try to coax the crab within net range!
  • Crab Snare (Rod & Reel): There’s a gadget called a crab snare which is popular in some areas and can be cast with a fishing rod. It’s essentially a small wire or plastic cage for the bait, with multiple soft loops (snares) attached. You cast it out with a medium-heavy fishing rod and reel. Let it sit on bottom; crabs will approach and start eating the bait in the cage. After giving it a few minutes, you perform a quick retrieve; this causes the loops to tighten around any crabs that are holding the device. With luck, you reel up a crab entangled in the snare loops. This method is handy where using a drop net is not possible (like fishing from rock groynes or jetties with high railings). It essentially converts crab catching into a form of “fishing.” Keep in mind it takes some practice to get the timing right – yank too hard or too soon and the crab may not be caught. But many anglers have success with snares in areas such as piers in NSW or QLD. Always check legality, as not all states allow snares (they are usually fine, since they don’t pierce the crab, but for example WA explicitly prohibits any device that could pierce or foul-hook a crab).

Each of these setups has its ideal application. If you have a boat or easy access to water, drop nets are the simplest way to harvest a bunch of crabs. If you love a hands-on challenge or have expansive flats, wading with a rake/scoop is fantastic. And if you’re constrained to a pier without nets, the handline or snare techniques can still put crabs in your bucket. Some seasoned crabbers even do a combo (e.g. set a few drop nets from a boat, then hop out at low tide to wade nearby shallows). Feel free to experiment with gear to find what suits your style and local conditions.

Effective Baits and Lures

Blue Swimmer Crabs are not picky eaters, but using the right bait will greatly improve your catch rate. The term “lures” is a bit unconventional here – crabs generally aren’t taken on artificial lures like fish are. Instead, think of bait as the “lure” for crabs. We’ll list the top natural baits and also cover a couple of specialized attractors (like the crab snare device mentioned) that function similarly to lures in crabbing.

• Top 3 Natural Baits:
  1. Oily Fish Frames and Heads: It’s hard to beat fresh fish offcuts for crab bait. The oilier and smellier, the better – Blue Swimmer Crabs are highly attracted to mullet heads, tuna heads, salmon frames, tailor carcasses, or even carp chunks. After a fishing trip, save those fish frames! A big fish head secured in your drop net will send out a strong scent trail and can often have multiple crabs fighting over it. If using hoop nets or pots, put the fish frame in a bait bag or cage to prevent crabs (or small fish) from breaking it up too quickly. This keeps the bait effective for longer soak times. In South Australia, popular baits include Atlantic salmon heads and carp (an invasive species there) – both very oily and effective. In WA, mullet or tuna heads are classics. As the bait soaks, oils and juices release into the current, essentially “chumming” for crabs. One tip from veteran crabbers is to salt your fish baits (especially softer ones like pilchards) overnight; salting toughens the flesh so it lasts longer, and the salt draws out juices creating a juicy brine that crabs find irresistible.
  2. Raw Chicken Pieces: Despite being a land animal, chicken has earned a legendary reputation as crab bait – many swear by chicken drumsticks, wings, or necks. The appeal is that chicken is tough (hard for small fish to rip apart) and exudes a persistent smell in water. A chicken drumstick tied to a handline or placed in a net will often come up with a crab on it. One thing to note: some Australian states prohibit using poultry or mammal meat as crabbing bait (due to concerns about introducing non-marine diseases or attracting sharks). South Australia, for instance, specifies no poultry or red meat for crab bait – only fish or seafood based bait. Always check your local rules. Where it is allowed, chicken is effective. If you use it on a handline, consider putting it in a mesh stocking or old pantyhose; crabs’ claws get tangled in the fabric, making it easier to slowly pull them in without them stealing the bait. Chicken bait is cheap and doesn’t require refrigeration for a short trip (some even let it get a bit “ripe” for extra aroma).
  3. Squid, Fish Fillets, and Other Seafood: Beyond fish heads and chicken, Blue Swimmers will eat basically any marine flesh. Pieces of squid or octopus are great – they’re tough and elastic (stay on the bait clip well) and emit a strong scent. Whole pilchards or sardines can work in a pinch, though they’re soft and may need a bait cage. Prawn heads/shells can attract crabs, but you need a lot of them or to put them in a perforated container so the scent disperses. Even mussels or cockles can be used (in a mesh bag) if you happen to have a surplus. In short, any kind of smelly seafood waste can be recycled as crab bait. One crafty method is using a can of fish-based cat food: poke holes in it and secure it in the trap – it’ll leak scent for hours (just retrieve the can afterward to avoid littering). The good news is Blue Swimmers are not very fussy – they are opportunists that will sample most baits you offer. Just ensure whatever you use is secured well so you’re not feeding the crabs without catching them. Also, bigger bait often equals bigger crabs; a huge male crab is more likely to be attracted to a substantial meal (like a fish frame) than a tiny bit of bait. So don’t skimp – load up those nets with hearty portions for the best results.
• Essential “Lures” (Alternative Attractors):
  Note: Crabs don’t chase shiny lures or react to color the way fish do, but there are a couple of devices that effectively “lure” crabs in or onto your line, which we’ll consider as the crabber’s version of lures:
  • Crab Snare Device: As described in the gear section, a crab snare is a small bait cage with monofilament loops. While not a lure in the traditional sense, it’s used on a fishing rod almost like you would use a lure. You cast it out and let it sit; the bait inside lures the crab to the device, and then you “set” the snare by reeling in, hoping to entrap the crab’s appendages. It effectively turns a passive bait into an active capture tool. The “lure” aspect is the bait’s appeal; some advanced snare users even attach a rattle or bright plastic to the cage, theorizing it might pique a crab’s curiosity to approach. If you are fishing from a structure where using a standard drop net is impractical, a crab snare is an essential tool to have in your arsenal. It allows you to crab with rod-and-reel, and many times you’ll actually reel in and feel a bit of a fight when a crab is snared – it adds a sporty element.
  • Handline & Dip Net (Visual Lure): Again, while the handline method primarily relies on bait scent, there is a bit of art to it that parallels lure fishing. You are essentially sight-fishing for crabs by watching your bait and using the dip net at the right moment. If water is clear and shallow, you might even see the crab tugging on the bait as you slowly pull it in. Some anglers will gently jiggle the bait line to keep the crab interested as it follows – almost like teasing a fish with a lure. The handline itself could have a bright sinker or reflector, but truthfully the crab cares about the smell more. One tip here: use a thin line for your handline, like 10–20 lb mono, which is less visible in water than rope. The crab will be less wary coming to the bait, much like a fish hitting a lure on light line versus heavy line.
  • No True Artificial Lures: To be clear, there isn’t really an artificial “crab lure” you toss out and retrieve to entice crabs to bite a hook – crabs don’t strike moving objects the way predatory fish do. They might, on occasion, grab a slow-moving bait or a dead bait on a jig (some anglers fishing for other species have reeled up a crab clinging to their bait or lure!). But targeting them that way is unreliable. Stick to dedicated crab attractors – smelly baits and trap designs – rather than traditional lures. If you come across gimmicky crab lures on the market, take them with a grain of salt. The exception could be using something like a crab rake in shallow water, where you are effectively the lure – you provoke the crab into movement by disturbing the sand, then chase it down. But that’s more about technique than gear.

In summary, bait is king for crabs. Always bring more bait than you think you’ll need (refreshing bait regularly keeps the scent strong). If crabbing is slow, try changing up the bait type or moving to a new spot – sometimes just the right smell in the right place turns things around. In the next section, we’ll go through the actual techniques of deploying nets and catching the crabs, now that your gear is prepped and baited to entice these hungry crustaceans.

Fishing Techniques

With gear and bait sorted, let’s cover how to actually catch Blue Swimmer Crabs using that equipment. We’ll break down the main technique (using drop nets or pots) step-by-step, and then alternative techniques like wading/raking. Along the way, we’ll throw in pro tips to fine-tune your approach. Crabbing may seem straightforward, but little details in technique can make a big difference in your success and enjoyment.

• Technique 1: Drop-Net Crabbing (Boat or Pier) – Step-by-Step:
  1. Find a Promising Spot: Move to an area that fits the habitat description – e.g. the edge of a sandbank next to a channel, around seagrass beds, or near an estuary mouth. If from a boat, idle along until your depth sounder shows the desired depth (often 2–6 m is ideal to start). If from a pier, try to drop near pilings or between weed patches and sandy bottom. Ensure the current isn’t too strong (you don’t want your bait scent immediately swept away). Mark the spot or remember a shoreline reference for each net you deploy.
  2. Bait and Deploy the Net: Bait your drop net securely in the center (use the bait clip/bag to tie it in). Gently lower the net straight down to the seabed – avoid making a big splash that could spook crabs. If on a boat, either quietly place it over the side or toss it slightly ahead of the drifting boat so it sinks flat. Let the rope play out and attach your float. Make sure the rope has some slack if the tide will rise, so the net stays on bottom. Pro tip: if you’re deploying multiple nets from a boat, drop them in a line or a grid pattern with some spacing (e.g. 20–30 m apart) to cover more ground and help you remember the order to check them.
  3. Wait (Soak Time): Give the nets time to do their work. A common mistake is checking too soon. Typically, you want to wait 10–20 minutes per check. Early in the session, lean toward 20 minutes to let crabs find the bait. In a hot bite, you might shorten to 10–15 min on subsequent runs if you were catching crabs consistently (because if nets get too crowded or a big crab sits there too long, sometimes they fight or wander off). Use this waiting time to maybe set more nets, prepare a second bait batch, or do a bit of fishing for something else nearby – but keep track of time. Also, keep an eye on your floats for any unusual movement which could indicate a large crab (or even a ray or small shark) dragging the net; if a float is jerking around, it might be worth checking that net sooner.
  4. Pull the Net Correctly: When it’s time, approach the net quietly (especially if in a boat with a motor, try to drift up or use a paddle). Grab the rope just above the float and start retrieving at a steady, brisk pace. The key is to keep the net moving upward smoothly so any crabs on it remain pinned by centrifugal force. Do not pause or slow down once you’ve started lifting – a crab can sense the change and try to swim out. Aim to bring the net from bottom to surface in one continuous motion taking only a few seconds. As the net comes out of the water, quickly swing it into the boat or onto the pier – be prepared because crabs often try to scramble out immediately. Having a landing net or an extra hand to quickly cover the drop net can help if a feisty one is on the edge.
  5. Secure Your Catch: With the net onboard (or at your feet on the pier), the crabs will usually be scrambling around inside. Approach from behind them to avoid claws. If you only have one or two crabs in there, you can often grab them by the base of the back legs (wear gloves!). For multiple crabs, it might be easier to tip the net into a bucket or tub – but watch that none cling to the net and escape over the side. Immediately measure each crab; undersize ones must be released (and should be handled minimally to avoid stress). If any are female, check for eggs (berried females are fully protected in many jurisdictions and should be released at once). In some regions it’s required or encouraged to release all females regardless – a good conservation practice. Put keeper crabs into your holding container and attach claw restraints (rubber bands) if you plan to keep several together; this prevents both injuries to you and them fighting each other.
  6. Rebait and Repeat: Remove any old bait that’s been stripped to a husk and rebait as needed. Often crabs will have eaten a lot of the bait or fish might have pecked it. A fresh, smelly bait will keep the catches coming. Drop the net back in (or if that spot was unproductive, consider shifting it to a slightly new location). Continue the rotation through your nets in the same order you set them, maintaining that ~15-20 minute soak interval. Experienced crabbers develop a circuit: by the time you’ve checked the last net, the first one has been soaking long enough again. When a particular net keeps coming up empty after several tries, don’t hesitate to move it – even 50 meters away to a new patch of bottom can find the crabs. Pay attention to patterns: are most of your crabs coming from the slightly deeper channel nets, or the shallower ones? Adjust accordingly. And of course, if you hit a limit or have enough for a feed, consider stopping – no need to take more than you’ll use. It’s also good to leave some for next time!
• Technique 2: Wading and Raking – Step-by-Step:
  1. Timing and Tide Prep: Plan to go raking on a low tide or falling tide. For example, arrive at the beach an hour before the predicted low so you can start as the tide is going out and then work the flat through the low. It’s much easier to spot and scoop crabs in shallow water. Daylight raking can work (especially if water is clear and sun is at an angle so you can see bottom), but many people prefer night raking with a flashlight when crabs are actively moving. If night, ensure your headlamp is bright and you have spare batteries. Also, consider safety: it’s good to do this with a buddy, and let someone on shore know your plan.
  2. Walk and Scan: Wade out onto the flats, dragging your floating basket behind you. Move slowly and shuffle your feet on the bottom (to avoid stepping on a stingray or even a buried crab). Scan the sand for signs of crabs. You might see an actual crab moving – look for a sudden scuttle or a pair of red eyes reflecting light if at night. Or you might notice telltale “marks” in the sand: a small mound or a part of a shell sticking out. Often, a buried crab will betray itself by two little black eye tips or a bulge in otherwise smooth sand. In weedy areas, look for any motion among the weed edges. It takes a keen eye, but once you spot a few crabs you’ll get the search image. In crystal clear water, sometimes you can see their whole outline on the bottom.
  3. The Capture – Rake or Scoop: When you spot a crab, approach carefully from behind if possible (they can only move so fast, but they will try to flee, usually backwards or sideways). If using a rake, gently slide the rake on the bottom toward the crab and then with a quick firm scoop, flick the crab up and backwards onto the sand behind you. It might take a bit of a flip to throw the crab clear of the water. Raking requires a fluid motion – too slow and you’ll just prod the crab into racing off. If using a scoop net, you want to get the net under the crab swiftly. Sometimes the best way is to lower the net to the bottom a little ahead of the crab, then herd or coax the crab into it. At night, crabs can be sluggish in the beam of a light, which can give you an extra second to position your net. Once the crab is in the net, lift it out promptly and tip it into your floating bucket.
  4. Handling in the Water: If for some reason you need to handle the crab with your hands (say it’s tangled in weed or you missed with the rake but pinned it), always grab from the rear of the shell – place your thumb and index finger on either side of the carapace spine at the very back, effectively holding it just above the swimmer legs. This way it cannot reach you with its claws. Keep it at arm’s length and drop it into the basket. It’s wise to measure right away; use your gauge to check the carapace width while the crab is calm (in water they are a bit more docile; once in a dry bucket they start getting feisty). If undersized or a protected female, gently release it immediately where you found it – they’re more likely to survive if not carried around. To release in water, lower the crab and let it kick off your hand; they can swim away readily.
  5. Cover Ground Strategically: Move across the flat methodically. Crabs might be patchy – you could find several in one small area and none in another. Pay attention to micro-habitats: a slightly muddy patch with bits of shell might hold crabs digging for clams; an edge of eelgrass could have crabs lurking at the vegetation line. If you find one crab, slow down and search that vicinity thoroughly – there could be more. Conversely, if you go 15–20 minutes without seeing anything, consider moving either deeper or shallower or to a different section of the flat. Sometimes crabs will concentrate near the drop-offs or channel edges where the flat ends. As the tide falls, they often retreat that direction, so those edges can be hot zones. Also, remember to keep an eye on the tide – if it starts coming back in, don’t get caught far out with water rising too fast. Work your way back toward shore as needed.
  Pro Tip: Some South Aussie experts use the “triangle method” when raking: once a crab is flipped out of the water, immediately scan a triangular area ahead of you (about 3–5 m on a side) – many times another crab is very close by but you only notice it after catching the first. The disturbance or the first crab’s movement can even trigger a nearby one to move. By working in a systematic pattern, you maximize the chance of spotting those that aren’t immediately obvious.
• Technique 3: Handline & Dip Net – Step-by-Step (Pier Crabbing):
  1. Set up your handline: Tie a heavy piece of bait (e.g. chicken frame or fish head) to a 3–5 m length of line. Add a small weight if needed to sink it. Lower it off the pier until it rests on bottom. Secure the end of the line to the pier (or hold it) but keep slack minimal so you can feel tugs. Often you’ll feel a distinct tug-tug or a steady tension when a crab grabs on.
  2. Slow Retrieve: Once you suspect a crab is dining, very slowly pull the line up. Aim to bring the crab toward the surface at a snail’s pace – the crab will usually hold on tightly to the bait with its claws as long as it feels like it’s just pulling against something, not being yanked. This is the delicate part; any sudden jerk and the crab will let go and flutter down.
  3. Netting: Have a long-handled landing net ready (or enlist a friend). As the bait (with crab clinging) becomes visible, gently guide it closer to the surface. The helper should then scoop up from underneath the crab in one quick motion. If alone, you might try to quickly grab the line with one hand and scoop with the other, but this is tricky – a drop net used as a hoop under the crab can also work as a solo netting method. Once the crab is in the net, haul it up and over the railing.
  4. Reset: Rebait if necessary and drop it back down for another go. Often if one crab came, others might be around. Some crabbers actually use multiple handlines along a pier, checking each in rotation (like mini trot-lines). Just be sure to keep track of them to avoid tangles.
• Pro Tips and Details:
  • Bait Management: Keep your bait fresh (or refreshingly smelly). If using multiple nets, bring plenty of bait so you can top up as needed. For traps soaking longer than 20–30 min, bait cages are really helpful to prevent total loss of bait. Also, consider using a mix of bait types across your nets (for instance, fish heads in some, chicken in others) to see what’s drawing more crabs that day.
  • Marking Gear: Make your floats obvious to avoid boat strike or other anglers messing with them. Bright colors and your name (if required) helps. Also, if you’re in a busy area, stay close to your gear. Unfortunately, crab pots can be subject to “sharing” by others if left unattended. Regularly check them and don’t stray too far – plus, frequent checking helps maximize your catch rate and prevents something like an octopus moving in (octopus can enter traps and eat your crabs).
  • Stealth and Patience: Crabs can be wary of disturbances. When wading, move quietly; when pulling up to a float with a boat, do so gently (consider killing the motor and drifting the last few meters). Give the crabs time to confidently start feeding on the bait – a little patience goes a long way. If you pull up a net and find the bait half-eaten but no crab, it could be you checked a bit too soon or spooked the crab as you approached. Next time, allow a bit more soak time or approach from up-current so your boat doesn’t pass right over the net.
  • Adapt to Conditions: If it’s daylight and crabs seem shy, try adding a little cover to your traps – some people tie a few strands of seaweed to the top of the drop net to mimic natural cover, making crabs more willing to sit under it (since overhead predators like birds are a threat in shallow clear water). At night, this isn’t an issue. If current is strong, you might need to add weight to your net (some nets have a weight ring to help them sink flat and not drift). In shallow choppy water, crabs might bury, so perhaps shift slightly deeper where water movement is less. Always be ready to tweak your approach.
  • Safety: When wading, carry a sharps container or thick gloves in case you encounter things like stonefish or discarded fishing hooks – shuffle feet and use the rake to probe areas ahead of where you step. If at night on a boat, have all required navigation lights, and if on foot, maybe wear a PFD if wading out deep (water can be surprisingly forceful). Respect local wildlife – if dolphins show up, often the crabs will vanish (dolphins do eat crabs), you might have to wait them out or relocate. And never turn your back on the ocean; rising tides or boat wakes can catch you off guard.

By following these techniques and tips, you should be well on your way to a successful crabbing expedition. There’s nothing quite like the moment you lift a net heavy with crabs or spot a big bluey in the beam of your torch. Next, we’ll cover what to do after you’ve caught them: how to handle crabs during the fight and after capture, whether you’re releasing them or keeping them for the table.

Catch and Handling

Catching Blue Swimmer Crabs is only part of the adventure – next comes handling them safely and humanely. This section will guide you through managing the “fight” (such as it is with a crab), best practices for releasing crabs in good shape, and tips for those keeping crabs for a meal on how to dispatch and store them to maintain quality. Proper handling ensures you don’t get pinched, you minimize harm to undersized or unwanted crabs, and you end up with prime condition seafood when you do keep some for the table.

During the Fight

• Fighting a Crab on Line or Net: While Blue Swimmer Crabs won’t peel line off a reel or make drag-screaming runs, there is a bit of an art to “fighting” them in the context of handlines or snares. The key point is that a crab’s instinct when it feels tension is often to let go and drop off (unlike a fish that pulls away). So, the “fight” is about coaxing rather than battling. If you feel a crab on your line, keep steady, gentle tension – don’t jerk or yank. Slowly bring the crab toward you. If you sense the crab is slipping or you suddenly lose weight, it likely let go; stop pulling for a moment – sometimes the crab will grab the bait again if it hasn’t been spooked by coming too near the surface. In essence, you are trying to keep the crab committed to holding that bait until you can get a net under it. Many a crab is lost at the last second by getting too excited and hauling up too fast (causing the crab to panic and swim down). Remember, patience wins in this scenario. When netting the crab, do so decisively – have that net ready and scoop in one smooth motion. If you miss, the crab will splash away quickly; they can swim surprisingly fast with their paddle legs.
• Handling Nets with Crabs: If you’ve got crabs in a drop net, the “fight” is really in the lifting. Do not stop mid-retrieve – keep that consistent pull so the crabs can’t scrabble out. A common mistake is lifting the net to just below the surface and then hesitating or dragging it sideways to the boat – that’s when crabs slip out. Instead, lift vertically and get the rim of the net above the waterline in one go. Once you see the crabs at the surface, quickly grab the frame of the net or the rope at the hoop to prevent it from tipping, and swing it into the boat. A bit of water in the net is fine – it helps keep the crabs calm for a moment. As they come out, be prepared for vigorous movement; blue swimmers will start flapping their claws and might even attempt to climb out. Keeping a hand on the net frame and setting it down on the deck helps contain them.
• Avoiding Common Mistakes: One classic error is overloading a net – leaving it too long such that it fills with multiple big crabs that start fighting each other or getting tangled. This can lead to some crabs falling out on the way up or even tearing through the net. Regular checking (every 15–20 min) prevents that over-crowding. Another mistake is grabbing a live crab carelessly. Never stick your hand into a net full of lively crabs without a plan – always approach from behind a crab and pin it down or grab the base of the hind legs. If you’re unsure, use tongs or a purpose-made crab grabber to lift them out one by one. Also avoid the “flimsy bucket” issue: putting crabs in a cheap thin plastic bucket that they can actually claw their way out of or tip over. Use something with a secure lid or high slick sides (a cooler with a lid ajar works, or those flex-tubs some crabbers use with a lid strapped on).
• When a Crab Fights Back: Blue Swimmers aren’t as aggressive as mud crabs, but they will defend themselves if provoked. If one latches onto your boot or glove, stay calm. Don’t flail around, as that can tear your skin worse. Usually, running water over the crab or gently pushing at its claw joints will make it release. If a crab on deck is particularly feisty and snapping at you, throw a towel or burlap sack over it – often that calms them and you can then pick it up through the cloth. Some crabbers immediately put each caught crab on ice; the cold immobilizes them (more on that in handling for consumption). The main point during the “fight” stage is to be deliberate and cautious – rushing often results in a dropped catch or a pinched finger. Take your time, use tools, and respect the crab’s weaponry.

Catch and Release

• Decision to Release: There are several reasons you might release a crab: it’s below legal size, it’s a female (possibly required if carrying eggs, or by personal choice to conserve breeders), it’s a soft-shelled (recently molted) specimen with little meat, or you simply have enough and want to let it go. In all cases, you want that crab to survive and remain healthy. Blue Swimmer Crabs actually handle catch-and-release fairly well if done right – they are hardy in water, but remember they cannot live too long out of water (unlike some crabs, blue swimmers will suffocate if kept dry for extended periods). So, if you intend to release a crab, do it promptly.
• Safe Handling Techniques: The safest way (for both you and the crab) is to handle the crab from the rear. Grasp it by the base of its swimming legs or place your hand flat on the back of the shell, holding the rear spines between your fingers. Keep the crab’s claws facing away from you. Avoid picking it up by a claw or leg – not only can it reach you if you slip, but the limb could break off (crabs can self-amputate limbs when stressed). Support the crab’s body if possible, especially larger ones, so you don’t put all the pressure on one point. If the crab is snapping a lot, you can gently pin it down on the ground and then pick it up from behind once it’s slightly subdued. Another method: grab both last pair of legs (the paddles) in one hand – many crabbers do this to measure the crab, since it gives a firm grip and immobilizes the claws somewhat.
• Maximizing Survival Rates: When releasing, carry the crab back to the water and lower it in gently. Ideally, place it back into the water at the edge of where you caught it (for example, don’t toss a crab from the pier 5 meters down onto the water – the impact isn’t good for it). Instead, you could lower it in a net or by hand if safe. For wading, just crouch and let it go in ankle deep water and it will scamper off. If you’re on a high pier, perhaps use your net as an elevator: put the crab in the net, lower it to the water, and flip it out. The goal is a minimal drop and a quick return to its natural environment. Make sure the crab is right-side up when it goes back in – they can right themselves, but being gentle is part of good release practice.
• Handling Females and Soft Crabs: It’s often advised to release all female crabs (especially any with eggs, known as “berried” females, which are typically illegal to keep). Female Blue Swimmers (sometimes called jennies) can be identified by their broader, rounded abdominal flap underneath and their brownish color. They are the reproducers of the population, so letting them go helps sustain the fishery. Soft-shelled crabs (ones that feel limp or whose shell flexes when squeezed) should also go back – they’ve just molted and haven’t grown meat back yet. Keeping them is pointless (little to no meat) and letting them molt and harden will give them a chance to fill out for the future. When releasing a soft crab, handle it extra carefully as its new shell is delicate. Many fisheries have regulations or at least guidelines covering these scenarios – e.g. in some places it’s mandated to release berried females immediately. Following these ensures high survival; a berried female dropped back in will find a hiding spot and continue her spawning, contributing thousands of new crabs.
• Minimizing Out-of-Water Time: If you catch a crab and know you’ll release it, try not to keep it out long at all. Do the measuring and inspection quickly – have your measuring gauge handy so it’s a 2-second task. Every extra minute in a dry bucket or on a hot deck is added stress on a crab. One trick if you’re sorting through many crabs (like emptying a trap) is to splash some seawater on them periodically to keep them wet and cooler while you work fast. Crabs are pretty tough, but heat and dehydration will kill them. A good practice: only bring aboard or onto the pier the crabs you intend to keep; if something is obviously undersized or female, you can often remove it from the net and toss it back immediately without even going into the bucket. This assembly line approach ensures near 100% survival for those thrown back. And try to place them back rather than throw from height. Blue swimmers can swim, but a big toss can stun them if they belly-flop.
• Dealing with Entangled or Injured Crabs: Sometimes a crab might get a leg torn in a net or come up with a missing claw (they do sometimes drop claws when heavily stressed – a defense mechanism). If a crab is missing a limb but is otherwise legal and in good shape, you can still release it; crabs do regenerate limbs over time. A lost claw is not a death sentence – they’ll regrow it after a couple molts. So don’t feel you have to keep an injured crab; they are resilient. If one is hopelessly tangled and you need to cut the net to free it, do so – the net can be mended, and the crab’s life is valuable. Always prioritize a clean release over saving a bit of gear.

By handling your released crabs with care, you ensure the population stays healthy and that those individuals can be caught again in the future when they’re bigger (or can reproduce to make more crabs). It’s a satisfying part of crabbing to watch a small or female crab swim away strongly, knowing you did the right thing and maybe earned some good karma with the “crab gods” for your next trip!

For Consumption

• Best Dispatch Method (Humanely Killing Crabs): If you are keeping crabs to eat, it’s important to dispatch (kill) them humanely before cooking or cleaning. Never start cooking a crab live in boiling water – aside from ethics, a live crab will thrash and often shed its claws (they “throw” their claws as a stress response, which ruins some of the meat). The two primary humane methods are spiking or freezing/icing:
  • Spiking (Iki jime): This is a quick kill method. Take a sharp pointed object (an ice pick, screwdriver, or dedicated crustacean spike) and insert it through the crab’s head area. The target is the nerve center located just behind the mouthparts, essentially between the eyes on the underside. For Blue Swimmers, an effective way is to flip the crab upside down, lift the pointed flap (the abdomen) and you’ll see a small indentation or gap near where the head and body meet – driving a spike through there toward the center of the body will destroy the central nervous system quickly. Some prefer going through the mouth: you can put the spike directly in the mouth opening and push straight through – this also reaches the nerve center. Be sure to do this decisively and swiftly. The crab may twitch (nerve reflex) but it is effectively brain-dead instantly. Spiking is considered the most humane if done right because it’s instantaneous.Freezing/Ice Slurry: The other method is to stun or sedate the crab by chilling. You can place the live crabs in a freezer for about 20–30 minutes, or better yet, in an ice slurry (a mix of crushed ice and seawater) which cools them quickly. The cold will put the crabs into a torpor (they go to “sleep”). After that, you should still spike them to ensure they’re fully dead, but they won’t feel it at that point if sufficiently numbed. Some people rely on freezing alone; leaving the crab in the freezer for an hour will kill it. If you do this, be ready to cook soon after – leaving dead crabs too long (especially if just chilled, not frozen solid) can cause spoilage. Note: Do not keep them in fresh water to kill them (like tap water) for long periods – while a short purge in fresh water can clean their systems, too long will slowly drown them in a stressful way, which is not ideal from a humane perspective (and can sour the meat). The Deckee crabber’s method was to soak in fresh water 30 min to purge, then spike – purging is optional, but if done, follow quickly with a kill step.
  Regardless of method, always ensure the crab is fully dead before cooking or breaking it apart. A quick test: when a crab is dead, touching the eyes or mouthparts yields no response, and the legs will hang limp if you lift the crab. If there’s any doubt, give another spike thrust to be sure. It’s best for the crab and best for you (a not-quite-dead crab can revive enough to pinch when you’re not expecting it).
• Immediate Quality Preservation: Once dispatched, the clock is ticking to preserve the quality of the crab’s meat. Crab meat can deteriorate fast at warm temperatures (enzymes in the crab’s gut start breaking it down). Here’s how to keep your catch in top shape:
  • On the Boat/Shore: If you know you’re keeping crabs, it’s wise to have a large ice cooler with you. The ideal storage is an ice slurry of saltwater and ice – this keeps them cold and wet. If that’s not feasible, covering them in damp seaweed or a towel over ice is next best. Keeping crabs cool will slow any decomposition and also keep them calm. If you haven’t killed them yet, the cold will immobilize them. If you have, it keeps the meat fresh. Do not leave crabs in the sun or in a dry bucket for long; they’ll spoil rapidly and also it’s not humane for live ones.
  • Cleaning Shortly After Catch: Some folks prefer to clean crabs while alive (or right after killing) before icing, especially if planning to store them a while before cooking. This involves removing the carapace, gills, and internal organs and rinsing the crab bodies, leaving essentially the edible parts (meat in shell clusters). The rationale is that the guts can impart a bitter taste if they break down. If doing this, ensure the crab is dispatched first. Then you can hold the crab belly side up, pry open the flap, and pull the top shell off. Remove the feathery gills (“dead man’s fingers”) and any greenish-brown innards, and give the crab a quick rinse in saltwater. What’s left are the two cleaned halves of the crab which you can put on ice. Many will wait to do this cleaning until just before cooking, which is also fine – but if you have a long transport or delay, cleaning early can help maintain flavor.
  • Cooking and Cooling: For the best eating, it’s recommended to cook the crabs the same day you catch them, if possible. Boiling or steaming are common methods. For example, one method is to boil in salted water (some add a bit of sugar or spice) for about 4–5 minutes for average sized blue swimmers (once the water returns to boil) – they turn orange and float when nearly done. Do not overcook as the meat can toughen. Immediately after cooking, plunge the crabs into an ice bath or very cold water. This stops the cooking process and helps the meat release from the shell (and preserves that sweet flavor). It’s a crucial step – if you just take them out and let them cool slowly, the residual heat can overcook the meat and make picking them a mess. After cooling, let them drain and then refrigerate.
  • Storage: If you aren’t eating the crabs right away, you can keep cooked, cooled crabs in the fridge for a day or two, but for peak taste try to consume them within 24 hours. You can also pick the meat and freeze it if you have an abundance, though fresh is best. Never eat crabs that died before you cooked them (unless they were kept very cold and cleaned immediately) – there’s a saying: “dead crab = bad crab” because harmful bacteria can proliferate quickly after death. That’s why the steps above emphasize dispatching and icing.
• Additional Table Tips: When it comes time to eat, many people have their own tricks – some like to season the boil (bay leaves, peppercorns, etc.), others grill or stir-fry crab. Blue Swimmer Crab meat is delicate, so simpler is often better to let the sweetness come through. If you’re dispatching and cleaning before cooking (the “clean and cook” method), you can also marinate and barbecue the crab pieces for a different flavor profile. Any roe (bright orange egg mass inside a mature female that was not berried) is edible and considered a delicacy by some, but remember in many places keeping females with external eggs is illegal and should be avoided entirely.

Lastly, enjoy the fruits of your labor responsibly. There’s a special satisfaction in catching, cooking, and eating your own catch. Just as important is cleaning up after yourself – properly dispose of crab shells and remains (don’t leave them at the beach to rot and smell). And reflect on the experience: each time out you’ll learn something new about these fascinating blue swimmers, which will make you a better crabber and steward of the resource. Good crabbing!

Sources:

• Great Southern Reef – Blue Swimmer Crab profile (distribution, size, life cycle, behavior)greatsouthernreef.com
• Fish.WA.gov.au – Blue Swimmer Crab facts (size, diet, habitat in WA)fish.wa.gov.au
• Deckee Community – How to catch Blue Swimmer Crabs (practical tips on locations, gear, bait, handling)community.deckee.com
• Reel N’ Deal Tackle SA – Guide for catching blue swimmer crabs (equipment list, seasonal timing, regulations)reelndealtackle.com.au
• Wikipedia – Portunus pelagicus (Blue Swimmer Crab) (general species info, behavior)en.wikipedia.or
• Addict Tackle – Blue swimmer crab basics (general overview of ease of catching and taste)addicttackle.com.au