How to Catch King George Whiting: Complete Guide to Techniques, Gear, and Locations

Species Profile

Quick Identification

Scientific names and synonyms: Sillaginodes punctatus (monotypic genus). Common names include King George whiting, spotted whiting or spotted sillago, among others. It is endemic to southern Australia (from Western Australia’s south coast across South Australia and Victoria to New South Wales, including Tasmania).

Physical characteristics: These fish have a long, slender body and relatively small head and mouth. The back and upper sides are pale brown to olive-green, with a silvery-white belly. A hallmark is the pattern of oblique rows of dark brown or rusty-brown spots on their flanks, with the belly spot-free. Dorsal and caudal fins tend to be dusky greenish-brown. King George whiting have an elongated, almost circular cross-section body.

Figure: A King George whiting (Sillaginodes punctatus) – note the elongate shape and distinctive brown spotting.

Size: Adults typically reach 30–40 cm long, but can grow much larger. Maximum recorded lengths are around 72–80 cm, and weights up to ~4.8–5 kg. Most caught by anglers are around 30–50 cm. King George whiting can live over a decade (up to ~15 years).

Why Target This Species

Catch difficulty: Generally beginner–intermediate. Whiting are relatively accessible to anglers of all skill levels – they readily take bait and light tackle – yet can still offer a good fight on a finesse rod. Small hooks and careful rigging are required.

Culinary/Sport value: Extremely high. King George whiting is highly prized as a table fish – its flesh is firm, mild and sweet. It is also popular in sport fishing; South Australia considers it the most popular recreational species (rivaling snapper).

Behavior and Feeding

Hunting Pattern

Feeding method: King George whiting are benthic suction-feeders. They feed off the bottom by inhaling prey (not filtering plankton). They have protrusible jaws and will suck up worms, small crustaceans and other prey buried in sand.

Activity/peak times: These fish often feed most actively during low-light periods. Many anglers find dawn and dusk yields the best bite rates. They will also feed at night, especially on incoming high tides in shallow water. (However, whiting can bite at any time if conditions are right.)

Schooling: King George whiting commonly form loose schools on sandy or seagrass bottoms. They are not solitary ambush predators – instead they “hug the bottom” and often feed together in groups. Smaller juveniles concentrate in shallower beds, while larger adults may venture singly or in small groups over deeper reefs and gutters.

Primary Diet

Where and When to Find Them

Key Habitat

King George whiting inhabit southern Australian coastal waters. They prefer sandy and seagrass environments: bays, estuaries and sheltered coastal areas with sand flats, weed beds or seagrass meadows. Juveniles are most abundant in shallow seagrass and algal beds (2–20 m depth) where food is plentiful. Adults often roam into slightly deeper channels, reefs and gutters; they have been recorded to 200 m depth, though they are typically caught between 2–50 m.

Underwater structure: Look for patches of sand or rubble adjacent to weed or grass beds, near channel edges or drop-offs. Whiting often patrol the edges of weed beds or sand patches where currents stir up food. In coastal bays (e.g. Port Phillip, Western Port, Gulf St Vincent) the transitions from sand to weed/seagrass are prime.

Depths by season: In warm months, fish may spread shallow (<10 m) over sand flats and seagrass. In cooler months, many move to deeper basins or outer edges of the bay. Note that spawning occurs offshore (late summer–winter) so large adult fish may move away from shallow areas then.

Hotspots: Productive whiting spots are found across their range. In South Australia, Spencer Gulf and Gulf St Vincent (Yorke Peninsula) are legendary whiting grounds. In Victoria, popular areas include Port Phillip Bay, Western Port, Corner Inlet and coastal reefs; in Tasmania, the Derwent River estuary and Storm Bay. Western Australia’s south coast (e.g. Albany, Albany) and Bass Strait islands also hold whiting. Anywhere with sand/weed flats and moderate depth is worth trying.

Fishing Calendar

Seasonal peaks: Whiting can be caught year-round, but abundance and activity levels vary. In temperate South Australia and WA, winter (May–September) often produces "winter whiting" when calm seas prevail. In Victoria and Tasmania, summer to autumn (December–April) is often best, reflecting when waters warm and marine life is active.

Migration and spawning: King George whiting spawn offshore from late summer into winter. After spawning, planktonic larvae are carried into bays and estuaries, where juveniles grow up in seagrass habitats. Adults generally remain local (non-migratory), but will frequent deeper holes or reefs in the cooler seasons.

Water temperature: As a temperate fish (distribution ~29–41°S), KG whiting prefer cooler waters. They will bite well in water temperatures roughly 10–20°C. Extremely warm tropical waters (above ~22°C) can slow them down, while cold but clear winter water often concentrates them in predictable areas.

Optimal Conditions

Tides: Whiting often feed best on a rising tide or around high tide. Many anglers target whiting on the flood or peak of the tide. Slack (turning) tides are usually quieter.

Time of day: Early morning and late afternoon/dusk are prime whiting hours. The low-light period seems to trigger more feeding. However, whiting have a strong sense of smell and will feed in daylight if food is present. Midday with bright sun can be slow (fish prefer shaded or stirred water).

Weather: Calm, light-wind days are ideal, especially in winter. Calm seas allow whiting to venture into shallower flats and make burley more effective. In clear sunny conditions whiting may stay closer to bottom or structure to avoid bright light. Overcast or lightly stained water can trigger more surface/near-surface action. Strong winds or very choppy water often disperse baitfish and can make fishing tough.

Gear and Techniques

Recommended Setup

Primary Gear:

Rod: A light or ultralight spin rod around 7 ft (2.1 m) is ideal. Fast or extra-fast action gives the sensitivity to detect subtle bites and control the fish. Shorter rods (6–7 ft) are better for kayak/boat; longer rods (8–9 ft) can help anglers onshore cast farther.

Reel: A small spinning reel, size 2000–2500, spooled with light line. Choose a reel with smooth drag and a good retrieve rate to quickly gain line on a running whiting.

Line: Use 6–10 lb (2.7–4.5 kg) braid or monofilament mainline. Many anglers use braid (4–6 kg test) for sensitivity, with a light fluorocarbon leader (10–15 lb, 4.5–6.8 kg) to reduce visibility and abrasion. In clear water, 6–8 lb line is usually plenty. In snaggy reef areas, bump up to 10–12 lb with a heavier leader (as the Hook in Mouth blog suggests, around 10–15 lb leader).

Tackle: Use small snap swivels and sliding sinkers. A slip-sinker (running sinker) or paternoster rig is common. Long dropper loops (1–1.5 m leader) with small hooks (size #1/0–#4, long-shank or circle) allow natural bait presentation. Fluorocarbon leader (2–3 m) of 10–15 lb is typical; lighter leaders (6–8 lb) can be used on sandy bottoms.

Alternative Setup:

For more challenging conditions or trophy fish, a slightly heavier setup can help. A medium-light action rod (7–9 ft) with a 2500–3000 reel and 10–15 lb braid (15–20 lb leader) is a backup when fishing large baits, strong currents or deep spots. Use this if targeting very large whiting from boat or fishing around heavy kelp or reef where extra power is needed. On still water flats or from shore, lighter gear remains best for bite detection.

Effective Baits and Lures

Top 3 Natural Baits:

Pipis/Cockles: Fresh bivalves (e.g. pipis, cockles) are a top bait. Hook them through the lip or top shell on a size 1/0–4 hook. Use a light running sinker so the bait moves naturally. Pipis appeal to whiting’s love of shellfish.

Beach (Sand) Worms: Tapered tubeworms or beach worms (coloured bristles) are deadly in many areas. Rig a small chunk or strip on a circle hook or hair rig. These mimic the polychaete worms in the whiting’s diet.

Squid/Prawn Strips: Fresh squid tentacle or body strips, or peeled prawns, work well. Thread one or two small strips onto a 1/0 hook. The natural squid scent is very attractive. These work especially when worms attract unwanted bycatch (like leatherjackets) – squid is firmer and stays on the hook.

Rigging for each bait: Typically use a running sinker or paternoster rig with one or two small hooks. A bright bead or plastic flasher above the hook can attract bites. Use as little weight as needed to keep the bait on the bottom – fine-tuning weight by location (e.g. 10–30 g). Keep the rig simple: e.g. a 1–1.5 m leader with the hook 50–80 cm above a sinker works well on flats.

Essential Lures:

Whiting will take artificial lures, especially in clear water or where bait is less effective. Key lures include:

Soft plastics: Small 3–5 inch paddle-tail or minnow-imitating plastics in natural colours (pumpkinseed/green, white, clear) are excellent. Rig them on a 1/16–1/8 oz jighead. Work the lure slowly on the bottom with gentle twitches. Models like Berkley Gulp 4″ sandworms or paddle-tails (pumpkin or tobacco colours) are proven choices.

Small crankbaits/poppers: In shallow flats, surface lures can trigger finicky fish. Tiny pencil poppers (50–70 mm) or hover jigs in white, yellow or pearl often draw slurps at first/last light. Use light rod action to make these dart/stop enticingly.

Micro-jigs/soft vibes: Lightweight metal jigs (3–10 g) or soft vibes cast and lifted slowly near structure can mimic fleeing baitfish. These are useful on deeper reefs or when winds preclude baiting.

Colors/Sizes: Choose subtle, natural hues. Greens, browns, tans or translucent plastics match bottom prey. Bright accents (chartreuse, white) can help in murky water. Sizes are small – 1/4–1/2 oz metal jigs and lures around 60–80 mm length are sufficient. Match the prey type – e.g. crab/bug colours for worm imitators.

Fishing Techniques

Main technique (bait fishing step-by-step):

Locate fish: Use a sounder or look for ideal bottom (weed edges, sand gutters). Drop a small berley scent trail (crumbled pilchards or ground shrimp) to attract fish.

Anchor or drift: Either anchor over the target area or drift slowly with the current while keeping line taut. In calmer waters, anchoring with a chum ball can concentrate whiting.

Cast and present: Cast just past where you expect fish. Let your bait gently sink to the bottom. A small "bounce" or light lift of the rod tip (like tapping the lure on the bottom) can stir interest. Keep the line taut or a slight bend in the rod tip – whiting often pick up bait subtly.

Watch and feel: The first sign of a bite is often a tapping or pulling on the line. Be patient. When you feel a steady pull, or the rod tip dips, set the hook with a quick, upward sweep. Avoid too-violent hooksets, as their mouths are soft.

Fight and land: Once hooked, keep the rod low and reel smoothly. Whiting usually fight calmly with short runs, but they can dart into structure. Maintain tension and bring them in steadily. Use a soft net or hand-net gently under the fish to lift it aboard.

Alternative techniques:

Drift-fishing with berley: On windy or deep-water days, try drifting boats slowly without anchor. Use an umbrella rig or multiple droppers for wider coverage, along with strong burley (crumbled bread/grit) to keep fish in the area.

Soft-plastic jigging: In clear, calm conditions or on reefs, soft plastics can be cast beyond visible fish and slowly retrieved on the bottom – a good alternative if baits aren’t taking.

Surf fishing: From the beach, target wave-broken sandbars and gutters. Cast into the breaking zone or into gutters where waves stir up food. Lightly flick beach worm bait on a small hook with minimal weight.

Pro tips:

Use small, sharp hooks and light rigs. Whiting have very small mouths; size 1/0 or 2 hooks are typical. Heavy weights or big hooks will scare them.

Fine leader: A limp fluorocarbon leader helps the bait look natural on the bottom. Avoid bright or heavy swivels.

Chum often: Releasing small amounts of chopped bait (berley) regularly will keep whiting nearby. Even a small chum bag or pinch of bread can help.

Move if inactive: If you don’t get a bite in ~10–15 minutes, reel in and try a slightly new spot nearby. Whiting schools can be patchy.

Shadow and patience: Hide behind structure or stay still; whiting can be spooked by noise. Fish with a light silhouette (dawn, dusk, cloudy days) when they feel safer.

Catch and Handling

During the Fight

King George whiting generally do not make long, powerful runs like some gamefish, but they can put up a surprise dart when hooked. Use a light-action rod to keep steady pressure. Don’t lift the rod too abruptly – instead apply gentle back-pressure as you reel. A good practice is to keep a bend in the rod (use its flex) so that sudden jerks don’t tear the hook out of the mouth. Avoid jerking or slamming the hookset; a firm but controlled sweep is best. A common mistake is setting the hook too hard, which can rip out a small hookhold. Once the fish tires, lift it carefully using the net or by hand under the belly.

Catch and Release

• Handle with care: Whiting have delicate spines and skin. Use wet hands or a wet cloth to support the fish. Avoid squeezing or touching gills/eyes.
• Hook removal: Ideally use a barbless hook. Simply ease tension and twist the hook out gently, or use pliers/cut the hook if needed. If deeply hooked, cutting the line near the hook is safer for the fish.
• Keep in water: If releasing, minimize air exposure. Keep the fish in water while unhooking. Revive it by holding it upright in the current so water flows over the gills until it swims away on its own.
• Equipment: Long nosed pliers and de-hookers make safe release easier. Using a rubber net (if you must net the fish) can reduce scale loss.

For Consumption

King George whiting is superb eating, so harvest carefully:

• Dispatch: Humanely kill the fish quickly. A firm blow to the head (behind the eyes) or a hollow-point stab through the brain (iki jime) ensures immediate death and better quality. Some also bleed the fish by cutting the gill arches.
• Preservation: Gut and bleed immediately to prevent blood taint. Rinse the cavity with seawater. Then ice the fish straight away. Placing whiting in a slurry of ice and water (icing down in a sealed bag or bin) chills the flesh fast and prolongs freshness. Do not let them sit in warm air or sun.
• Filleting: Whiting have very fine bones, but filleting is simple along the length of the belly and backbone. Keep the fillets cold until cooking. A quick shallow fry or light baking highlights their sweet flavor. (Notably, whiting pairs well with light herbs like parsley or dill.)

By following these tips on identification, behavior, location, gear, and handling, anglers of all skill levels can successfully target King George whiting. Its reputation as a premier Australian fish – both to catch and to eat – is well-deserved.

Sources: Comprehensive information is drawn from fisheries guides and studies, as well as angling reports and expert advice. Each cited reference contains further details on King George whiting biology and fishing techniques.

References

Australian Fisheries Management Authority – Recreational Fishing
Department of Primary Industries NSW – Fishing and Aquaculture
Victorian Fisheries Authority – Whiting Fishing Guidelines
South Australian Research and Development Institute – King George Whiting Stock Assessments
Western Australian Department of Primary Industries and Regional Development – Recreational Fishing Guidelines
Tasmanian Department of Natural Resources and Environment – Marine Resources
Fisheries Research and Development Corporation – King George Whiting Reports