How to Catch Flathead: Complete Guide to Techniques, Gear, and Locations

Opening Statement: Welcome to the complete guide on catching flathead in Australia. This in-depth guide is designed for serious anglers who want to understand flathead in detail and improve their success rate. We will cover everything from species identification and behavior to habitats, seasonal patterns, optimal gear, proven techniques, and proper handling. By the end, you’ll know how to consistently find and catch flathead while respecting the fish and the fishery.

Species Profile

Quick Identification

An angler with a large Dusky Flathead, showing its camouflaged mottled pattern and flat, broad head.
The most popular flathead species for anglers is the Dusky Flathead (Platycephalus fuscus), found in eastern Australia. This fish has a long, tapering body and a broad, flattened head with both eyes on top – perfect for its ambush lifestyle. Its coloration ranges from sandy brown to olive or dark brown, usually with dark horizontal bars and pale spots that provide excellent camouflage against sand or mud.

A distinctive black spot often marks the upper lobe of the tail fin (caudal fin) in larger duskies. Typical catch sizes are around 40–60 cm in length (0.5–1.5 kg), while trophy flathead over 80 cm are prized catches. In fact, duskies can grow to nearly 1.2 m and 10+ kg, although fish over the “magic meter” are very rare. Regional cousins include the Southern Blue-spot, Sand, Bartail, and Tiger flathead, which share the same flattened “lizard-like” profile and ambush tactics.

Why Target This Species

Accessibility & Difficulty: Flathead are an excellent target for beginners – abundant in accessible areas and willing to hit a variety of baits and lures. Even novice anglers can catch smaller flathead consistently, yet pursuing a huge flathead presents an advanced challenge that keeps seasoned anglers engaged. This combination of reliable action and trophy potential makes flathead a favorite across skill levels.

Sporting Value: On appropriate tackle, flathead put up a fun fight with strong runs and headshakes. They earned nicknames like “lizards” or “crocs” for their appearance, but they won’t usually overpower an angler; instead, the challenge is in perfecting technique and timing. They are aggressive feeders, often providing exciting strikes in shallow water that can surprise you with an ambush attack. Targeting flathead on lures (especially with light spinning gear) is popular for the active, engaging style of fishing it offers.

• Culinary Quality: Flathead are considered excellent eating, with delicate white flesh that is prized in fish markets and restaurants. “Flathead tails” are a common menu item in Australia. Many anglers enjoy keeping a few mid-sized fish for a meal. (It’s generally recommended to release the very large females to breed – more on that in handling.)
• Best Time of Year: Flathead can be caught year-round, but the prime season varies by region. In northern Queensland they tend to peak in the cooler dry season (winter, June–August), whereas in Victoria they bite best in the warm summer months (December–February). In New South Wales, spring and autumn are often most productive. Overall, the warmer water periods (or just before spawning season) see the highest activity. Late winter into spring is considered a big-fish time in many east coast estuaries, and generally flathead fishing heats up as water temperatures climb above ~18°C. Knowing the seasonal timing in your area will help you target flathead when they’re most active.

Behavior and Feeding

Understanding how flathead behave and feed is the strategic heart of successful fishing. Flathead are predators with specific habits that dictate where and how you should fish for them.

Hunting Pattern

Flathead are classic ambush predators. They spend much of their time lying motionless and partially buried in sand or mud, waiting for prey to come within striking range. Their eyes are positioned on top of the head, giving them a wide field of upward vision to spot prey silhouetted against the light. When something edible comes close, a flathead can explode into action with a rapid burst – they have a fast short-distance strike to engulf prey before it knows what happened. After a quick lunge, they often settle back to the bottom, sometimes even before the angler realizes a fish has struck.

Flathead generally hunt alone rather than in large schools, but they often concentrate in prime feeding spots. It’s common to find several flathead scattered along the same drop-off or channel where food is abundant. During the spawning season, loose groups can form – typically one or two big females accompanied by several smaller males in the same area. Most of the time, though, each fish ambushes independently within its little patch of territory.

Peak Activity Times: Low light conditions such as dawn and dusk often trigger increased flathead activity. Predatory fish get an advantage in dim light, and anglers frequently report dawn/dusk as hot bite times for flathead. That said, flathead will feed throughout the day if conditions are right – especially if tidal currents are moving (bringing food) and the fish haven’t recently been spooked. Tidal flow is a bigger driver of their feeding than time of day alone (see “Optimal Conditions” below). Many anglers plan trips around the tides, noting that a well-timed tide change at sunrise or sunset can be magic for flathead fishing.

Another behavioral note is that flathead tend to hold their ground. They won’t roam far chasing prey; instead, they rely on prey coming to them. This means if you locate one flathead, there may be more in the immediate vicinity – but don’t expect them to be moving in a pack. You often have to cover water to find each fish’s hiding spot.

Flathead do not have a swim bladder, which keeps them neutrally buoyant; as a result, they are bottom-dwellers by nature and seldom suspend in mid-water. They hug the bottom contour closely, using any bit of cover (weed clumps, rocks, logs) to break up their outline. They also face into the current so that food drifts toward them. This is why presenting bait/lures moving with the current (toward the fish’s head) is so effective – it mimics naturally drifting prey and doesn’t alarm the flathead.

Primary Diet

Flathead have a voracious appetite and a fairly undiscerning palate – they are opportunistic carnivores. Their primary food sources are small fish and crustaceans. Studies and angler observations show that baitfish in the 7–15 cm size range are a staple, with juvenile mullet, hardyheads, whiting, gobies and similar prey making up a big portion of the diet. In many estuaries, mullet are especially important prey for big dusky flathead. Flathead lie in wait and inhale these fish whole, aided by their large mouth.

Prawns (shrimp) are the other major menu item. In fact, prawns can be the most common prey at certain times of year. During the warmer months, especially late summer, estuaries often have runs of schooling prawns at night – flathead will actively chase prawns during these periods, even leaving cover and moving more aggressively through the water column to snap them up. When flathead are feeding on prawns, their behavior can change: they become less patient, darting after the prawns which tend to swim in spurts. This is a clue for anglers to possibly switch to prawn-imitation lures or baits when prawn schools are abundant.

Beyond fish and prawns, flathead will eat almost any animal they can catch and fit in their mouth. Secondary prey include crabs, marine worms, squid, and even mussels or yabbies (small mud crayfish) dug out of the sand. Larger flathead (>50 cm) have been known to eat smaller flathead on occasion, as well as frogs or mice washed into rivers – truly opportunistic. But generally, small fish and prawns make up the core diet year-round.

Seasonally, there may be slight shifts: in many eastern Australian estuaries, prawns are more available in late spring through summer, whereas cooler months see flathead rely more on fish (and possibly crabs). However, flathead won’t turn down an easy meal of any type. This broad diet means anglers can succeed with a variety of natural baits and lures – from fish strips and live minnows to prawn imitations – as long as you “match the hatch” of what flathead are feeding on in that area. If mullet schools are around, for example, a mullet strip or fish-pattern lure is smart; if prawns are running, a prawn lure or live shrimp bait can be deadly.

How Diet Influences Bait/Lure Choice: Because flathead prey heavily on baitfish and crustaceans, the most effective baits and lures mimic these creatures. Soft plastic minnows, vibrating blade lures (that feel like a fleeing prawn or fish), and natural baits like pilchards or live yabbies all take advantage of flathead’s feeding instincts. We’ll cover specific recommendations in the Gear & Techniques section, but always consider what the flathead are eating right now in your location – it will guide you to the best approach.

Where and When to Find Them

Flathead are found all around Australia’s coastal waters, inhabiting a range of environments from tropical estuaries to temperate bays. Knowing where to look and when to go greatly improves your odds. This section covers flathead habitat preferences, seasonal movements, and the optimal conditions to plan your trip.

Key Habitat

Flathead are demersal (bottom-dwelling) fish that favor soft-bottom areas. Whether it’s an estuary, bay, or open coast, you’ll want to seek out sandy or muddy bottoms – often interspersed with structure – in relatively shallow water. Here are high-probability habitat zones for flathead:

• Tidal Estuaries and Creeks: This is classic flathead territory. They love estuaries, coastal lagoons, and river mouths where salty or brackish water meets the sea. Look for sand flats adjacent to deeper channels. On a dropping tide, flathead will sit right along the edge where the flat drains into the channel, waiting to ambush baitfish washing off the flat. On a rising tide, they may push up onto the newly inundated flat to hunt in very shallow water. Mud flats with seagrass or weed beds are also prime – duskies in particular camouflage perfectly in patchy weed and sand areas. Focus your efforts around drop-offs, channel bends, creek mouths, and weed-bed edges, as these tend to concentrate prey and give flathead good cover.
• Beaches and Surf Gutters: Certain flathead species (e.g. sand flathead, bartail flathead) will also patrol surf beaches, especially near the entrances of estuaries or in protected bays. A beach with gutter formations (deeper troughs between sandbars) can hold flathead waiting for small fish washed in by waves. Typically, the calmer beach areas or bay beaches are better than high-energy surf for flathead. If you’re beach fishing, target the corners near headlands or river mouths and any spot where a creek flows out, as flathead lurk there to pick off baitfish in the wash.
• Coastal Bays and Inshore Reefs: In southern Australia, species like the southern blue-spot flathead inhabit coastal bay systems (e.g. Port Phillip Bay in VIC, Gulf St Vincent in SA). They often stick to shallower water under ~10 m in bays. Search around sandbanks with patchy reef or weed, and near the mouths of bay tributaries. In northern Australia, bartail flathead occupy similar niches around bay shallows and lower tidal rivers. Rocky or coral reef areas are not prime flathead spots, but the sandy margins around reefs can hold them. Likewise, offshore sand flats or gravel patches in 20–50 m of water can hold flathead (e.g. tiger flathead offshore in NSW/VIC waters), though targeting those usually means boat fishing with drop rigs.
• Specific Hotspots: Flathead are widely distributed, so any coastal region likely has some. On the east coast, famous flathead waters include the Gippsland Lakes in Victoria (at the southern end of dusky flathead’s range) which produce fish year-round, and numerous NSW estuaries like the Hawkesbury River, Sydney Harbour, Tuross Lake, and the Tweed River. Southeast Queensland’s Gold Coast Broadwater and Pumicestone Passage are flathead havens, even hosting annual flathead fishing competitions. In northern Queensland, look to coastal estuaries around Townsville or Mackay (for bartail flathead). In the south and west, hotspots include Port Phillip Bay (which has multiple flathead species), St. Georges Basin (NSW), Swan River in WA (bartail flathead), and estuaries along SA’s Eyre Peninsula. The good news is that if you have access to saltwater anywhere around Australia’s coast, chances are you have a flathead species nearby.

Reading the Water: When scouting a location, use your eyes and tools. Polarized sunglasses are a must – they let you see submerged weed beds, sandy patches, and drop-off edges clearly. Flathead themselves can be nearly invisible until they bust off, but you can identify “fishy” structure: for example, sand patches within sea grass (flathead love to sit on the sand holes next to weed clumps). Also watch for baitfish activity (mullet jumping, prawns flicking, bait “showering” on the surface) – if prey is around, so are predators. Mark out likely ambush points: the tip of a sandbank, the down-current side of a point, eddies behind rocks. These are the spots where a flathead will station itself. Don’t neglect very shallow water on high tide – flathead can sit in less than 30 cm of water on a flat, especially big females, as long as a deeper escape route is nearby. Many monster “croc” flathead have been caught in knee-deep water on the flats.

Fishing Calendar (Seasonality)

Flathead behavior and availability change with the seasons, so timing your trips can help. Here’s an overview of seasonal patterns:

• Spring (Sep–Nov): In many areas, spring is prime flathead time. As the water starts warming up after winter, flathead become more active and begin spawning migrations. On the east coast, spring often sees big female duskies moving toward river mouths to spawn around the full moons of late spring and summer. Estuaries from SE Queensland down through NSW see excellent flathead fishing in September–November, with both numbers and large fish available. In southern states like VIC and SA, spring is when water temps finally climb into the comfortable teens, and flathead start feeding more aggressively (though peak might come a bit later in summer).
• Summer (Dec–Feb): The warmest months bring generally high activity for flathead, especially in temperate southern regions. In Victoria and Tasmania, summer is peak flathead season – flathead on the flats and in bays feed actively, and this is the best time for species like sand flathead and tiger flathead offshore (these are often caught between November and March). In NSW, summer continues to produce plenty of fish (including post-spawn females still feeding). One thing to note: in very hot conditions, flathead may move a bit deeper or into channels during the brightest part of the day if the shallows get too warm or exposed. Early morning and late afternoon summer high tides are ideal to fish the flats. Northern Australia (QLD/NT) actually experiences wet season in Dec–Feb, and though flathead can still be caught, heavy rain can flush estuaries and sometimes put them off or push them lower in the systems.
• Autumn (Mar–May): This can be a second peak in many places. In NSW, autumn (especially April–May) sees another spike in flathead action. Post-summer, baitfish like prawns often leave the estuaries (autumn prawn run), and flathead feast on them as they go – making autumn excellent for lure fishing with prawn imitations. Water temperatures remain warm enough for active feeding. In Queensland, autumn marks the transition to cooler dry season; flathead may actually ramp up feeding in late autumn as they approach their winter spawning (for QLD stocks) or just take advantage of the mild conditions.
• Winter (Jun–Aug): Winter is generally the slowest period for flathead in the southern half of the country. In cold waters (e.g. VIC/NSW in mid-winter), flathead metabolism slows and they become lethargic, often holding in deeper holes and feeding less often. Catch rates drop and the fish that are caught tend to be in the channels or deeper sections rather than up on flats. However, in Queensland and northern NSW, winter is actually prime spawning time for dusky flathead. During June–August in these areas, flathead form spawning aggregations in lower estuaries and around river mouths, and anglers can do quite well targeting them (please handle spawning fish with care). Even in QLD, very cool nights can slow the bite, but overall the dry season is favorable – the lack of rain keeps water clarity good and fish concentrated.
• Regional Variations: As mentioned, the farther north you go, the earlier the “peak” shifts into the cooler months. In contrast, the farther south (Tasmania, Victoria) peak shifts to hottest months. New South Wales sits in between with productive spring and autumn bookending the heat of summer. Always consider local patterns: for instance, in Tasmania (which has mainly sand flathead and tiger flathead), summer is when they are very active inshore; in the Northern Territory, the concept of “winter” doesn’t apply as much, but the dry (May–Aug) will see species like bartail flathead more accessible in coastal bays with clearer water.

Migration and Spawning: Flathead are not long-distance migrators like tuna, but they do have seasonal movements. Typically, adult flathead will move downstream toward river mouths or bay entrances to spawn, gathering in areas with tidal flow that disperses eggs and larva to the sea. After spawning, they may disperse back upstream or across flats. Juvenile flathead often inhabit the upper estuary or creeks and then move lower as they grow. Keep these movements in mind: e.g., late spring you might find many big duskies in the lower estuary on the NSW coast preparing to spawn, whereas in mid-summer they might be more spread out. Similarly, in a place like Port Phillip Bay, winter might see flathead a bit deeper, with a push into shallower bay waters in spring as water warms and baitfish arrive.

Water Temperature Influence: Flathead tend to become much more active once water temps rise above ~15 °C. Optimal feeding temperatures are often cited in the 20–26 °C range for temperate flathead. If the water is very cold (under ~12 °C) you’ll really need to work lures slowly or practically hit them on the nose to get a bite. Conversely, extremely hot shallow water (say a flat at 30 °C in midday sun) can also push them off into slightly deeper, cooler water. Moderate, stable temperatures generally keep flathead comfortable and hunting. A sudden cold snap or heatwave can put them off temporarily.

In summary, plan your flathead trips around the calendar: target them in the warmer months in the south, and consider winter/dry season trips up north. Pay attention to local reports – if prawns are running or a big seasonal change is happening, that’s your cue for a potentially great session.

Optimal Conditions

Flathead fishing is often best when certain conditions align in your favor. Three key factors to consider are tides, time of day, and weather/clarity:

• Tides: If there is one factor flathead anglers agree on, it’s fish the tides! The running tide (moving water) greatly stimulates flathead feeding. A classic axiom is that the last half of the falling (outgoing) tide is prime flathead time. As the tide drops off the flats, baitfish and prawns are forced off the shallows, and flathead pounce on this moving buffet concentrated along the edges. Position yourself at creek mouths, drop-offs, or channel junctions as the water drains – flathead will be lying in wait. Similarly, the first couple of hours of the rising (incoming) tide can be excellent. Flathead that were in deeper holes will move up to newly flooded areas to feed. Many anglers say the very top of high tide and the very bottom of low tide (slack water) are the least productive – flathead seem to prefer current. That said, each spot can have its own nuance (some flats fish better on an incoming tide if they get too low on the outgoing, etc.) so pay attention to what works locally. If you notice the bite dies at dead low, consider moving or waiting until flow resumes. Tidal range matters too: a big tide can really flush areas and concentrate fish on the outgoing, whereas a small neap tide might see less feeding. Many flathead experts keep detailed notes on tides versus catch success. As a rule of thumb: moving water = feeding flathead; focus on the two hours on either side of low tide for drop-offs, and two hours after high tide for flats.
• Time of Day: We touched on this in behavior – dawn and dusk are traditionally recommended times for flathead. The lower light gives flathead confidence to hunt in the open, and prey is often active at these times too. If you can align a sunrise or sunset with a good tide phase, you’re stacking the odds in your favor. That being said, flathead are not strictly crepuscular (dawn/dusk) feeders like some species. They will bite at any time of day if other conditions are good. Don’t be afraid to fish midday, especially if you have a tide change or some wind chop on the water. In fact, some anglers find that on overcast days, the “time of day” matters little – flathead might feed steadily through the day under cloud cover. The consensus is tide trumps clock, but many of us love those calm dawns and dusks when flathead hunting feels ideal. Also note that flathead catfish (a completely different species in North America) are nocturnal – but our Australian flatheads are not particularly more active at night. They can certainly be caught at night (especially if prawns are running), but night fishing is not a must for flathead. Focus more on tide and light conditions.
• Weather & Water Conditions: Flathead don’t like extremely rough conditions, but a bit of wind can help by breaking up the water’s surface (making fish less spooky) and drifting your boat/bait along. Moderate, stable weather is best. If a howling wind is stirring up a lot of sand or making it unfishable, that’s obviously not ideal. Conversely, a completely glassy midday with blazing sun might make shallow flathead a bit wary (they can see you and predators easily). A light breeze creating ripple on the flats is perfect. Cloud cover or slightly murky water can be your friend by giving flathead confidence to sit shallow. After heavy rain, if the water turns to chocolate milk in an estuary, the bite can slow due to low salinity and very poor visibility; however, a bit of fresh influx can also push flathead down toward the estuary mouth where salinity remains, concentrating them. So rain is a double-edged sword. In general, consistent conditions over a few days (stable barometer, no extreme temperature swings) yield the most reliable fishing. Some anglers swear that fishing is best on a rising barometer (fair weather approaching) and often tough on a rapidly falling barometer (storm on the way). And as noted earlier, many believe the phase of the moon influences flathead: for instance, a common theory is that the days surrounding the full moon see increased feeding (perhaps because flathead feed at night on the full moon and are extra active). Others plan trips on the new moon when nocturnal bait movement is high. These factors are subtle and may vary – don’t get too caught up in moon mythology, but it’s something to experiment with.

Ideal Scenario: If you could dial up perfect flathead conditions, it would probably look like this – A warm, stable spring day with a late-afternoon falling tide that bottoms out right at sunset, light winds, and maybe a day or two past the full moon. In this scenario, you have warm water, moving current in the golden hour of light, and a comfortable feeding window for flathead. But remember, flathead can surprise you on less-than-ideal days too. The key is to fish whenever you can, but tailor your approach (deeper vs shallow, slow vs fast retrieve, etc.) to the conditions at hand.

Gear and Techniques

Now we get to the hands-on part: the gear you’ll need and the techniques that consistently catch flathead. Selecting appropriate tackle is important – you want gear that’s light enough for a good fight and sensitive lure presentation, yet robust enough to handle a big flathead’s thrashing runs. We’ll cover both primary setups for typical flathead fishing and alternatives for special situations. Then we’ll dive into the best baits and lures, followed by step-by-step techniques for fishing them.

Recommended Setup

Primary Gear: A balanced light spinning outfit is ideal for flathead. The consensus choice is a light-medium spinning rod around 7 feet (2.1 m) in length, rated roughly 2–5 kg (or 4–10 lb line) paired with a 2500–3000 size spinning reel. This kind of rod has enough backbone to set hooks and handle a decent fish, but a sensitive tip to detect bites and work lures effectively. A slightly longer rod (7′ to 7′6″) aids in casting distance across flats and keeps line off shallow structure. On the reel, spooling up with braided line in the 6–10 lb range is highly recommended. Braid offers sensitivity (so you can feel subtle taps) and low stretch (for solid hook-sets). Attach a fluorocarbon leader of about 10–15 lb breaking strain, typically 45–60 cm long, between your main line and the lure or hook. The leader gives abrasion resistance against the flathead’s raspy teeth and any sand or rocks. Going too heavy on leader (over 20 lb) can reduce strikes in clear water, so stick to the 10–16 lb range as a good compromise. This primary setup covers most scenarios: it’s light enough for enjoying small flathead and plenty strong if you hook a trophy (with a skilled fight).

Why this gear? Flathead often inhale lures/baits subtly, so the sensitivity of braid and a lighter rod helps you feel the “tick” of a bite even in current. But flathead also fight with headshakes that can throw hooks, so a forgiving rod tip and smooth drag are needed to keep them pinned. A 2500-size reel with a quality drag and around 5:1 to 6:1 retrieve speed is perfect – it holds enough 8–10 lb braid and isn’t too heavy to cast all day. This setup also allows you to cast lightweight soft plastics or bait rigs a good distance. It’s a versatile, all-round flathead outfit that countless Aussie anglers use.

Alternative Setup (Heavy or Specialized): In some situations, you may want to beef up your gear. For instance, if you’re targeting extra large flathead (“crocodiles” over 80 cm) specifically, or fishing in deeper water with strong currents (like offshore for tiger flathead), a heavier setup helps. An alternative is a medium-heavy combo rated ~5–10 kg rod with a 4000–5000 size reel. This might be a 6.5–7ft rod capable of throwing bigger lures (20–40g) or handling heavier sinkers for deep bait fishing. Pair it with 15–20 lb braid and a leader in the 20–25 lb range. The heavier outfit is useful for casting big soft plastics or swimbaits that entice the truly large flathead, and for horsing up fish from 30–50 m deep if fishing offshore. As a trade-off, you lose some sensitivity and sport on smaller fish, so this is a more niche setup. Another specialized setup is for fly fishing – typically a 9′ fly rod in 7–8 weight for targeting flathead on saltwater fly (this is a fun challenge on the flats but beyond the scope of most anglers). For land-based bait fishing, some anglers use a slightly longer rod (8–9ft) to get more casting distance from shore, but still in that light line class.

In summary, you don’t need heavy tackle to land flathead – even a big girl can be subdued on surprisingly light gear if you take your time. Many trophy flathead (90 cm+) have been caught on 6–10 lb line. However, if you plan to consistently throw large lures or want insurance in gnarly spots, the medium/heavy combo is your friend (and it doubles nicely for other species like mulloway or snapper when not chasing flatties).

Pro Tip: Always check your leader after every decent flathead. Their sandpapery teeth and sharp gill covers can fray a leader badly. If you feel roughness, retie your knot or replace the leader section. Many heartbreaks occur when the next fish hits a damaged leader and breaks off. Using quality fluorocarbon leader helps, but vigilance is key.

Effective Baits and Lures

Flathead are not picky eaters, which means you have a lot of options for baits and lures. However, a handful of choices have proven especially effective. We’ll break this into two parts: Top Natural Baits and Go-To Lures. For each, we’ll note how to rig them and when to use them.

Top 3 Natural Baits:

1. Live Prawns: Arguably the #1 flathead bait, especially in estuaries. Live prawns (shrimp) hook flathead by appealing to their love of crustaceans. Rigging is simple – use a light hook (size 1 to 2/0) through the tail or front of the prawn and just enough weight to keep it near the bottom. Many anglers free-line a live prawn or use a small running sinker above a swivel (a running sinker rig) so the prawn can flip around naturally. Cast it near drop-offs or structure and let it drift with the tide. Flathead will often pounce as the prawn drifts by. Live prawn is deadly on a drifting boat too: bounce it slowly along the sand and hang on! If live prawns aren’t available, freshly dead ones can work, but live is best for that kicking action and scent.
2. Small Fish (e.g. Mullet, Whitebait, Pilchards): Flathead readily eat small baitfish, making these baits extremely effective. Live poddy mullet (finger-length mullet) are a prime bait – hook one through the back or nose and let it swim near the bottom in likely areas. Flathead can’t resist a struggling mullet in their strike zone. If live baitfish are hard to get, use dead baits like pilchard (whole small pilchards or half fillets), whitebait, or strips of fish fillet (mullet, tailor, whiting, etc.). These baits put out oil scent and are easy meals. A common rig is the standard running sinker to a swivel and a 1/0 to 3/0 hook. Pin the bait so it looks natural (e.g. through the nose of a whole fish or at one end of a strip). Cast it out and retrieve slowly or simply let it sit/drift with occasional twitches. Drifting in a boat with a couple of bait lines out (often called bottom bouncing) is a great way to cover ground and find feeding flathead. They aren’t shy – flathead often swallow baitfish headfirst and you’ll feel a proper tug. Just remember to give a slight pause if you feel a bite on dead bait – let them eat for a second, then strike. Many flathead hook themselves though.
3. Yabbies (Ghost Shrimp) and Crustaceans: In many estuaries and bays, bass yabbies (also known as nippers or ghost shrimp) are a go-to bait for flathead and other species. These are small crustaceans you can pump out of the sand at low tide. Flathead love them. Use a light wire hook (#4 to #1 size) through the tail of the yabby. Fish them on the drift or cast and slowly hop them on the bottom. They work best on a gentle drift where the yabby bumps along naturally – flathead will sniff them out and inhale them. Similarly, fresh shrimp from freshwater reaches can work, as will small crabs (soft-shelled crabs or pieces of crab). Even strips of squid make effective flathead bait, as they stay on the hook well and flutter invitingly – flathead will eat squid strips readily. Squid is a top choice when drifting deeper water for flathead offshore; it endures pecks from pickers until a flathead finds it. One more on the crustacean list: marine worms (like beach worms) can catch flathead too, though they’re more commonly used for whiting. Flathead won’t refuse a big juicy worm on the bottom. Overall, if it’s a natural critter found in their environment and fits in their mouth, a flathead will probably eat it. The key with bait is freshness – fresh or live bait greatly out-fishes old, soggy bait. Also, use minimal weight – just enough to keep the bait near bottom but still drift naturally. Flathead often hit moving prey, so let that bait waft with the current.

(Note: Check your local regulations – some areas have limits on collecting yabbies or using certain baitfish. Also, ensure any live bait is legal in your water.)

Essential Lures:

1. Soft Plastic Jerkbaits & Paddle-tails: If there is one lure group flathead anglers swear by, it’s soft plastics. Soft plastic minnows or shads in the 3–5 inch (75–125 mm) range are flathead killers. These lures imitate the small fish flathead love to eat. Two main styles work:
   • Paddle-tail swimbaits which have a wobbling tail action on the lift and drop.Jerkbait or shad-tail plastics which you hop and glide (the lure darts when you twitch it).
   Classic examples are 4″ minnow shads (like ZMan Diesel MinnowZ, Berkley PowerBait Minnows, etc.) and 3–5″ jerk shads. Rig them on a jighead heavy enough to reach bottom (commonly 1/8 to 3/8 oz, depending on depth and current) with a 2/0 to 4/0 hook that matches the plastic’s size. The technique is usually a hop-hop-pause retrieve (see Techniques section). Flathead will often slam the plastic on the pause as it flutters down. Why soft plastics? They allow you to cover water and actively search for fish, and flathead strike them aggressively. They also catch everything else, so by fishing plastics you might hook bycatch like bream, trevally, etc., keeping it fun. Color matters on some days: as a rule, use natural baitfish colors (silver, white, olive, clear with sparkles) in clear water, and switch to bright or contrasting colors (pink, chartreuse, orange, or dark “motor oil” brown) in murky water or low light. For instance, in tea-stained or muddy water, flathead respond well to bold colors like hot pink or nuclear chicken (green and orange), as well as dark gold or brown that create a silhouette. In crystal clear water, something like pearl white, translucent olive, or pumpkinseed can be more effective. Don’t be afraid to try very flashy colors – flathead sometimes hit the gaudy ones best (e.g. bright pink soft plastics have a cult following for flathead). Soft plastics are effective year-round and probably account for the majority of lure-caught flathead.
2. Hardbody Minnow Lures: While plastics dominate, hard-bodied lures (especially shallow diving minnows) are another staple, particularly for trolling or covering flats quickly. A typical flathead hardbody is a 7–12 cm floating minnow or shallow crankbait that dives to 1–2 m. For example, lures like the Daiwa Double Clutch 95, Rapala X-Rap, or Classic F18 are all proven. The idea is to either cast and retrieve these with a twitch-pause action over the flats, or to troll them behind a drifting boat. Hardbodies have the advantage of an built-in wiggle and they often dive and dig into the sand, stirring up puffs of sand – this can really draw a flathead’s attention. When casting, work them with plenty of pauses and the occasional sharp twitch to emulate an injured baitfish. When trolling, it’s usually a slow troll (around 2–3 km/h) across sand flats in 1–3 m of water. Let the lures out 15–20 m behind the boat so they get down near the bottom and occasionally bump bottom without constantly snagging. Good colors for hardbodies include natural baitfish patterns (pilchard blue, mullet silver, gold/black) on sunny days, and brighter patterns (pink, orange, chartreuse) or white for overcast days – similar logic to plastics. Hardbodies seem to really shine when flathead are more scattered (you cover ground) or when fish are holding just a bit deeper where a plastic might miss them. They also tend to hook fish in the mouth more often (flathead often engulf plastics deep, but hit hardbodies head-first). One downside: fishing treble-hooked lures in very weedy or snaggy areas can be frustrating. But on clean sand flats or gentle weed, they work a treat. Pro tip: choose floating divers when casting shallow water – you can let them float up and avoid snagging if you pause longer. In deeper water, suspending or sinking vibes (next category) might be better.
3. Vibes, Blades and Other Lures: Beyond the above, there are a few other lures every flathead angler should consider:
   • Soft Vibes & Metal Blades: These are sinking lures (often 5–10 cm long, 10–20g weight) that vibrate when lifted. Examples include the Samaki Vibelicious (soft vibe) or TT Switchblade (metal blade). They are deadly in deeper holes or channels where flathead sit. You cast them out, let them hit bottom, then give a lift or two – you’ll feel a strong vibration – then let them sink again. Flathead often hit on the drop, similar to plastics. Vibes are great for vertical fishing from a boat too. They excel in cooler water when fish are a bit sluggish – the vibration can trigger reaction strikes. And when flathead are hanging in 3–6 m depths that are a bit hard to target with a light plastic, a vibe gets down to them. Some anglers also troll vibrating lures or use them when searching for fish since the vibration covers some of the attraction. Don’t forget to occasionally add scent to vibes to encourage bites if fish are tentative.
   • Poppers & Surface Lures: Topwater lures are not a traditional flathead method, but on rare occasions flathead will hit surface lures. Usually this is in ultra-shallow water (under 1 m) at dawn/dusk or night, when a flathead sees a walking stickbait or popper as an injured baitfish on the surface. It’s more of an advanced or experimental technique (and more commonly results in a bycatch like tailor), but some big flathead have been caught on surface lures over seagrass shallows. It’s good fun if you want to try, but for consistency, subsurface lures are far more reliable.
   • Fly patterns: For those fly fishing, clouser minnows (with weighted eyes) in sizes 1/0 to 2 are the go-to flies for flathead. Color combos like brown/white (to mimic prawns) or all-white with a bit of flash (to mimic baitfish) work well. You strip the fly along the bottom in short hops, very much like working a soft plastic. Fly fishing for flathead is typically done on the flats on a flooding tide – it’s challenging but rewarding for experienced fly anglers.

Whichever lure you choose, remember the key principle: keep it near the bottom. If your lure isn’t occasionally ticking the sand or mud, you’re missing the strike zone. Flathead will rarely chase bait high up in the water column. They might rise a meter or two if something really grabs their attention, but 95% of the time the successful lure is operating right along the bottom or within a foot of it. So choose lure weights/diving depths appropriately. If fishing 2 m of water, a plastic on a 1/4 oz or a hardbody that dives to 1.5 m should do it. In 5 m, maybe a 1/2 oz vibe or heavier jighead.

Adding Scent: Flathead have a strong sense of smell. Many savvy anglers apply scent attractants (like prawn or baitfish-scented gels) to their lures, especially soft plastics, to encourage flathead to bite and hold on. This can make a difference on slow days or when fish are nipping short. It’s a cheap trick that often pays off.

In summary, if you had to pick one setup: a 1/4 oz jighead with a 4″ paddle-tail plastic is an all-season, all-water flathead lure that rarely fails. Supplement that with some fresh bait or a trolling lure in your kit, and you’re equipped for anything flathead-related.

Fishing Techniques

You’ve got the gear and the lures/baits – now how do you actually fish them for flathead? In this section, we detail the core techniques: how to present baits and lures in a way that flathead find irresistible. We’ll start with the primary technique most anglers use (lure hopping) and then cover alternatives like bait fishing and trolling. Sprinkled throughout are pro tips that can really boost your catch rate.

Primary Technique – Hopping Lures (Step-by-Step):
One of the most effective ways to catch flathead is by “hopping” a soft plastic lure along the bottom, mimicking a darting prawn or injured baitfish. Here’s a step-by-step on how to do it:

1. Position and Cast: Whether wading or on a boat, position yourself so you can cast over likely flathead lies (along edges of banks, in front of drains, beside weed patches). It often helps to cast up-current and ahead of your drift if on a boat. Make a long cast and let your lure sink all the way to the bottom. Starting with a cast up-current ensures the lure moves naturally with the flow and stays near bottom as you retrieve, plus it reduces the chance of spooking fish that are facing into the current.
2. Hop and Pause: Once the lure is on bottom (your line will go slack), give your rod a sharp upward twitch or lift – usually about 30–60 cm lift of the rod tip. Some anglers do a double hop (two quick lifts). This action makes the soft plastic jump off the bottom, creating that attention-grabbing movement. After the hop, immediately drop the rod tip back down (reeling slack as needed) to let the lure flutter back to the bottom on a semi-slack line. This pause while the lure falls is critical – most strikes occur as the lure is sinking back down. Pause for a moment once you suspect it’s hit bottom again (feeling a slight slack or seeing line stop). Flathead often inhale it right as it touches down.
3. Feel for Hits & Set Hook: Be alert during the fall – a hit can feel like a distinct “tap-tap” or just a mushy weight. If you feel anything odd or see your line twitch, do a quick but controlled strike (rod lift) to set the hook. With braid, you don’t need a massive yank – just a firm lift will drive the hook home. If you feel a dead weight when lifting after a pause, it could be a flathead that picked up the lure and is just sitting (this happens!). Reel quickly to tighten and you’ll soon feel it come alive. Once a fish is on, keep the rod low and tension on (more on fighting in Section 5.1).
4. Repeat the Retrieve: If no hit, continue the hop-pause sequence along the entire retrieve: lift-lift, pause, reel slack, lift again… Working it all the way back to your feet or boat is wise because flathead often follow a lure a bit before striking or might strike right near the boat. Vary the cadence slightly if no luck – sometimes a higher jump or longer pause triggers a bite. Speed Control: In cooler water or if fish seem inactive, slow it down – longer pauses, gentle hops. If fish are aggressive (e.g. in summer), you can work it a bit faster. But generally a moderate pace with clear pauses is best for flathead.
5. Cover the Area: Fan cast the area by working multiple casts covering different lines (across the channel edge, at 45 degrees, etc.). Flathead are structure-oriented but also spread out, so covering ground is key. If you get a hit or catch one, fish that area thoroughly – there could be another close by. If nothing after numerous casts, move 10–20 m and try a new spot. Mobility is often critical in flathead fishing.

This hopping retrieve is effective not only with soft plastics but also with vibes (just a shorter lift to feel the vibration) and even natural baits (a method called “hopping baits” or lifting them to drift down). The reason it works is it appeals to the flathead’s predatory instincts: something moves then “dies” (pause) – an easy meal. Also, by hopping you ensure the lure is kicking up sand and making itself known. Remember to keep the lure near bottom – let it hit bottom every time. Flathead will hug bottom and won’t chase far off it. A lure that constantly skips along just above bottom is ideal.

Alternative Technique – Drift Fishing with Bait:
If lure casting isn’t your thing or you want to soak some bait concurrently, drift fishing is a tried-and-true flathead technique. It’s particularly good from a boat or kayak. The idea is simple: use the wind or current to drift your boat over a flat or along a channel while trailing baits near the bottom. You can also do a “pseudo-drift” from shore by slowly walking your bait along an area with the current. Here’s how to do it effectively:

• Rig one or two rods with your choice of natural bait (live prawn, strip of fish, etc.) using a running sinker or small ball sinker right to the hook if the drift is slow. The weight should be just enough to occasionally tap bottom but not get snagged constantly. This usually means a 1/4 to 1/2 oz sinker in shallow water, more if deeper or fast current.
• Cast the bait out behind or to the side of the drifting boat, then leave the bail arm open for a moment to let the bait reach bottom. Once on bottom, put the reel in gear. As you drift, periodically feed a bit of line or lift the rod to make sure the bait stays in contact with bottom. You want it bumping along, not dragging like an anchor. If it’s dragging too hard, you have too much weight.
• As you drift, the moving bait covers ground. Flathead will sense the bait moving with the tide and often nail it while it’s on the move or right after a bump. Many bites feel like a steady pull or a “tap-tap” followed by weight. Because the boat is moving, sometimes the fish pretty much sets the hook itself. Just pick up the rod and wind if it loads up, or give a swift strike if you felt taps but no hookup.
• Drifting allows you to locate fish efficiently. When you hit a patch of flathead (say you catch two in quick succession), you can mark that spot (use a GPS or shoreline reference) and consider doing another drift through the same line.
• This technique is great because it’s relatively relaxed and covers water. You can also drift one bait rod while actively casting a lure on another rod – a combo many anglers use to maximize chances. Just be sure to manage the bait rod when a fish strikes; flathead can swallow a bait deeply if left too long, and they also might wriggle off if not hooked securely.
• If you’re fishing from shore, you mimic a drift by casting up-current and slowly retrieving slack as the bait moves with the current along the bottom. Every so often, lift and drop the bait a bit to make it jump (like you would a lure). This slight movement can induce a strike.

Alternative Technique – Trolling:
Trolling is an effective way to fish for flathead when they are scattered or when covering large flats and channels. We touched on it with hardbody lures. Here’s a quick guide:

• Use 2–3 shallow diving hardbody lures (or even soft vibes) set out behind the boat. Flathead trolling is done close to shore and in shallow zones (often 1–4 m depth), not out in the middle of nowhere. Good places to troll include the length of a sandbank drop-off, the mouth of an estuary, or along the edges of a broad flat.
• Go slow – about 1.5 to 2 knots (roughly 2–3 km/h, a brisk walking pace) is ideal. You want those lures swimming just above the bottom. If they’re constantly digging and snagging, speed up slightly or choose a shallower diving model; if they never touch bottom, let more line out or use a deeper diver.
• A spread might include one lure running say 1 m deep and another running 2 m, etc., to cover different depths until you find where fish are holding. Keep the lures a good distance back (10–20 m behind boat) to avoid the boat spooking fish in shallow water.
• Watch the rod tips – a vibrating quiver means the lure is swimming right. When a flathead strikes, the rod will dip and often start bouncing. Pick it up and set the hook with a sweep, then enjoy the fight.
• Trolling is especially useful outside of peak times – say midday when fish are a bit spread out, or in a new system where you’re searching for structures holding fish. Once you get a bite or two in one area, you can stop and cast if you prefer.
• Some anglers also troll drift with bait (slowly motor drifting with baits out) but straight lure trolling is more common for flatties.

Other Methods – Jigs and Fly: If you find flathead in deeper water (e.g., 20–50 m offshore sand patches), you might use a paternoster rig with bait (drop it straight down and drift) or even work a micro-jig (small metal jig 20–40g) bouncing on bottom – similar idea to vibes. Fly fishing was mentioned: it involves wading the flats and sight-casting or blind casting clouser flies on a floating line, using a strip-stripping retrieve along bottom. It’s niche but tons of fun when you get one.

Pro Tips & Details that Make a Difference:

• Accuracy and Targeting: When casting lures, pinpoint accuracy to likely holding spots can greatly increase strikes. Flathead often sit tight to structure – e.g., right against a weed edge or beside a rock. Try to land your lure within a meter of that structure. Don’t assume flathead only sit in the middle of sand patches; they like the edges. Casting right along a drop-off and working parallel can outfish a cast that goes into the deep or too far up on the flat. Casting accuracy matters more than many think for flathead.
• Keep Moving vs. Stay: Flathead fishing rewards mobility. If wading, keep shuffling along the flat fan-casting. If boating, drift new ground or move after 10–15 minutes if nothing happens. The exception is if you know the fish are there (e.g., you see bait or had hits) then be persistent. But generally, cover water until you find fish, then slow down and fish that area thoroughly.
• Use the “Stir up” Trick: Flathead are attracted to disturbed sand/mud (it signals feeding activity). If you’re wading, occasionally shuffle your feet to kick up puffs of sand – this can draw curious flathead in. Similarly, a lure that digs bottom and kicks up sediment can trigger strikes beyond its visual appeal. Some anglers even drag chains or weights on the bottom behind the boat when drift fishing to create a mud trail that brings flathead in like a dinner bell.
• Observe and Adapt: Pay attention to what you see. If prawns are flicking out of the water ahead of your lure, maybe switch to a prawn imitation or work that area more. If you catch a flathead and it coughs up a half-digested baitfish, note the size/color of that bait – match your next lure to it. If you suddenly start catching only small flathead, consider moving slightly deeper for larger ones (often big and small segregate by depth a bit). Constantly adapt to the clues the fish and environment give you.
• Handling multiple hookups: Sometimes, you might hit a hot streak and get hits cast after cast. It can be chaotic if you have one fish on and another rod gets a bite (common when drift fishing with multiple rods). Prioritize finishing one fish at a time and secure it (in a net) before grabbing the other rod. Flathead often seem to “school” in that if one bites, others nearby get competitive and bite too. Enjoy those moments!
• Be Ready for the Strike: Many flathead anglers develop a kind of sixth sense for the tick of a bite. Until you do, make sure you stay focused. Don’t daydream with slack line out. Keep a slight tension or at least watch the line like a hawk on every pause. If it jumps or twitches – strike! If your lure suddenly feels “heavy” – strike! You lose nothing by swinging (plastics rarely snag on nothing), and it’s better to swing on a weed than to miss a fish. Over time you’ll distinguish a fish from debris.
• Use the Right Hookset: With bait, a big yank can sometimes just pull the bait out of the fish’s mouth. Many flathead anglers using bait will do a sweep set – a firm lift of the rod, not a wild jerk. For lures, because you’re often already moving the lure, the hookset happens almost naturally. Just ensure you whip that slack out on a bite. Circle hooks (if using for bait) don’t require a traditional strike at all – just wind tight and let the hook rotate into the corner of the jaw. Circle hooks of size 3/0–4/0 are great if you plan to release fish, as they reduce gut hooks.
• When to Strike on a Flathead “Carry”: Sometimes with bait you’ll get a nibble and then nothing, and you suspect the flathead might have picked up the bait and is just sitting. They have a tendency to engulf a bait and not move. If you suspect this (line felt heavy then slack), slowly lift the rod tip – if it loads up or you feel weight, strike immediately. I’ve caught many flathead that were just sitting still with a bait in their gob – you don’t feel a fight until you basically poke them with a hook set.

With these techniques and tips, you’re well-armed to fool even the wiliest flathead. It’s often said that flathead fishing is “easy to learn, hard to master.” At its core, it’s simple – keep something tasty near the bottom and wait for the thump. But mastering the nuances of lure action, reading water, and detecting subtle takes is what makes it an endless and rewarding pursuit.

Catch and Handling

Catching a flathead is only part of the adventure – how you handle the fish during the fight and after landing is crucial. This section covers fighting techniques to maximize your landed fish count, as well as best practices for handling flathead whether you plan to release them or keep them for the table. Flathead have some unique considerations (like sharp bits to watch out for and the fact that big ones are valuable breeders), so a responsible angler will take note of these tips.

During the Fight

The moment you set the hook on a flathead, the fight is on. Small to medium flathead (30–50 cm) often give a few head shakes and can be reeled in steadily, but larger flathead (>60 cm) have a few tricks that can catch you off guard. Here’s how to bring them in successfully:

• Keep the Rod Tip Low: As soon as you feel a solid hookup, get that rod tip down closer to the water and maintain a bend in the rod. Flathead have a nasty habit of violently shaking their head, especially if they break the surface. By keeping the fish in the water during the fight, you discourage it from thrashing. If a flathead’s head comes out of the water, it will almost always start shaking to try to throw the hook. A low rod angle also helps keep pressure directly on the fish. Many experienced anglers fight flathead with the rod pointed almost straight at the fish (not too high up) until the fish is tired.
• Maintain Steady Pressure: Never give slack line during a flathead fight. They have a relatively hard, bony mouth area, and hooks can dislodge if tension eases. Reel consistently and use the rod’s bend to keep a constant pressure. If the fish swims toward you, wind fast to pick up line. If it runs, let it take some drag but keep that gentle bend in the rod. A properly set drag is important – set it to about 1/3 of your line’s breaking strain (for instance, ~2–3 lb of drag on 8 lb line) before you start fishing. This should be tight enough to tire the fish but loose enough to slip on a sudden surge. Common mistake: cranking the drag too tight because “it’s just a flathead” – then a big one makes a dash and snaps the leader or pulls the hook. Flathead can surprise you with short bursts of power, especially larger females. It’s better to play them a bit and let them run a little than to muscle them too hard.
• Beware of Headshakes and Runs: A hooked flathead often comes in pretty calmly at first, giving you the impression it’s given up. Don’t be fooled – usually that’s just phase one. The fish may suddenly erupt near the net or shore with ferocity. Big duskies are often well-behaved until they suddenly aren’t! They might thrash or do a quick 180-degree turn and bolt. Anticipate a last-moment dash or a series of violent shakes. When you sense a big one getting agitated (they might boil near the surface or you’ll feel stronger pulls), back off a touch. Let the rod and drag do their job. Keep its head under water as you guide it in.
• Angle the Fish, Don’t Horse It: If the flathead tries to go under the boat or into structure, use sideways rod pressure to turn its head. But avoid “water skiing” the fish across the surface; that’s when they’ll thrash. Instead, try to glide the fish toward the net when it’s ready. If it bolts, just let it run a short distance and then work it back in. Do not lift the fish out of water by the line or rod – always net or grab it (with proper hand/grip technique). Many flathead are lost by anglers trying to lift them up the bank or boat side without a net – the hook often pops at that critical moment. Use a net whenever possible for fish of any size.
• Landing Gear Ready: Have your landing net or lip grips ready before the fish is at the boat or shore. Fumbling for a net at the last second causes slack line which can let the fish shake off. A good net for flathead should be at least 40 cm across and fairly deep. Mesh type is important if releasing fish – rubberized or knotless mesh prevents scale and slime damage. If using lip grips (like a BogaGrip), that’s fine for controlling the fish, but do not lift a big flathead vertically by the lip alone – support its belly (this prevents internal injury). Often, the best method is a net for fish over 50 cm, as their weight can tear out of their mouth if lifted by grips alone. Smaller fish can be lipped carefully (watch those teeth). Always keep a hand or net under the fish’s body if you lift it out.
• Foul-Hooked Fish: Occasionally, a flathead might be hooked on the outside of the head or body (they struck and missed, or got snagged). These fish will feel extra heavy and fight awkwardly. Take it easy on these as the hooks can pull out even easier. Try to guide them in gently; sometimes scooping them quickly with a net is best once they’re near, since you can’t easily control them by the head.
• If You Lose One: Every angler loses flathead now and then – maybe the hook pulled or leader rubbed through. Don’t let it shake you. Check your gear immediately (flathead that got away might have abraded your leader or bent your hook). Re-tie or change hooks if needed. Take a breather, then get your line back in – big flathead often sit fairly close to where you lost them, especially if it was a brief fight and they weren’t fully exhausted. I’ve personally re-cast to the same spot after a thrown hook and caught the same fish (or one just as big) within minutes.

In summary, fight a flathead with patience and consistency. They’re not speed demons or unstoppable brutes, but they are masters at leveraging their shape and the element of surprise. If you keep them sub-surface, maintain tension, and have your landing plan ready, you’ll convert more hookups into landed fish. And that moment of sliding a big, dusky-spotted flathead into the net is pure angling satisfaction.

Catch and Release

Flathead are an important part of our fisheries, and practicing good catch and release (C&R) ensures there will be plenty of fish (and big ones) for the future. Additionally, many flathead anglers choose to release the large breeding females (often over 60–70 cm) even if keeping a few smaller ones for a feed. Here’s how to handle flathead safely and humanely for release:

• Beware of Spines and Teeth: First things first – protect yourself so you can protect the fish. Flathead have two sharp spines on their dorsal (back) and especially on their gill covers (operculum) that can easily spike your hand. Ironically, the smaller flathead have proportionally sharper spines, like needles. Wear a sturdy fishing glove or use a wet towel/rag when handling a flathead to avoid a trip to the hospital (flathead spine punctures can inflict painful wounds). Also, their small needle-like teeth can rasp you if you put fingers in the mouth – so avoid the mouth or use fish grips. Once you’re safe, you can better focus on the fish’s well-being.
• Use Proper Tools: Ideally, land the fish with a knotless net to minimize slime loss. Have lip grips or fish clamp tool to securely hold the jaw (especially on big flathead, as they can wriggle out of your hands). Many anglers lip-grip the fish and then keep it in the water until ready to unhook/photo – this is great because the fish can still breathe. Also have long-nose pliers or a de-hooker handy to remove hooks – flathead often engulf lures deep, and you may need tools to get the hook out safely for you and the fish.
• Gentle Handling: Flathead should be handled with wet hands only (dry hands remove their protective slime). Support the fish’s belly with your other hand if picking it up – never hang a large flathead purely by the jaw, as this can damage its jaw and internal organs. They are robust fish but still benefit from careful handling. Try not to let the fish flop on the ground, boat deck, or rocks. If a fish thrashes out of your grip, attempt to cushion its fall. A flapping flathead can also bang its head or break spines, which isn’t good for it.
• Unhooking: If the fish is hooked in the lip or jaw, use pliers to back the hook out quickly. If it’s hooked deeper (throat or gut – more common if using bait and missed the initial strike), you have two options: very carefully try a disgorger tool or, often better, cut the line as close to the hook as possible. Flathead have a reasonable survival rate even with a hook left inside, as long as it’s not stainless (which is why using bronze/circle hooks for bait can be good; they’ll rust out faster). Yanking a gut-hook out will likely cause fatal damage – better to leave it and let the fish’s body deal with it. Barbless hooks or crushed barbs can make release much easier, so consider that if you’re primarily catch-and-release.
• Limit Air Exposure: Have everything ready (camera, measuring tape) before lifting the fish out of water. Keep the fish in the water (or at least in a water-filled net) until you’re set for a quick photo or measurement. Ideally, keep air exposure under 30 seconds. Flathead are pretty tolerant compared to some species, but lengthy exposure can still cause stress. If doing a measure, use a wet brag mat or wet towel on a cool surface. Lay the fish gently, measure quickly (flathead often clamp their tail so you might need to wiggle it straight), then get it back in water ASAP.
• Revival: If the fish seems sluggish upon release (especially if it was a long fight or came from deeper water), support it in the water facing into the current. You can cradle it with one hand under belly and one gently holding tail. Do not push it back and forth (which can drown a fish); just hold it facing current or move it slowly forward to get water through its gills. Flathead will often give a kick and swim off when ready. Large flathead sometimes need a few extra seconds to catch their breath – be patient. Make sure it swims down strongly before fully letting go.
• High Survival: Thankfully, flathead are a hardy inshore species – if handled well, the vast majority of released flathead survive and continue growing. Many areas have introduced slot limits (protecting big breeding females) for flathead. For example, in QLD you must release duskies over 75 cm, and NSW allows only one over 70 cm in the bag (though many anglers voluntarily release all over 55–60 cm). These big females produce exponentially more eggs than smaller ones, so letting them go is doing the fishery a great favor. Plus, large flathead don’t taste as good as the pan-sized ones. Consider adopting your own personal maximum size to release, even if not mandated – it’s a good fishing ethic.
• Handling Multiple Fish: If you happen to catch and want to release multiple flathead (say during a hot bite or a competition with a live weigh-in), keep them in the water if possible. A tether stringer or holding cage in the water can work for short durations. But ideally, release each fish promptly unless you have a live well with aeration. Piling flapping fish on the shore or boat is a recipe for damage (to them and you).

One more note: Photographing Your Catch – Everyone loves a hero shot with a big flatty. Just make sure to keep it horizontal (supporting the body) and low to the ground or water in case it kicks (so it doesn’t fall far). Wet your hands and the surface. Get the pic quick and get the fish back. Those photos of anglers with a huge flathead are awesome, but what’s even more awesome is seeing that fish swim off strong to maybe be caught another day.

By following these catch-and-release practices, you’ll ensure the flathead you let go have the best chance to survive, grow, and maybe thrill another angler (or you again) in the future. Flathead can live over 10–15 years and reach truly large sizes if given the chance, so handling them carefully is an investment in future angling success.

For Consumption

Flathead are not only fun to catch – they’re delicious. If you plan to keep a couple for a meal, it’s important to humanely dispatch them and care for the catch to maintain quality. Here’s how to handle flathead intended for the table:

• Humane Dispatch: Flathead can be feisty, so don’t leave a caught fish flapping around alive in a bucket or esky. The best practice is iki-jime, which is a quick spike to the brain to instantly kill the fish. For flathead, the brain is located just behind and above the eyes – insert a sharp spike or knife point here and the fish will shudder and go limp if done right. If you’re not comfortable with that, a firm knock to the head with a fish bat or mallet is the next best option. Either method is much kinder and also preserves meat quality by minimizing stress. Be cautious of the spines when doing this – secure the fish (e.g. under a foot with shoe, or wrapped in a towel) and strike just above the head between the eyes.
• Bleeding: After stunning/dispatching, bleed the fish by cutting the gill arches or a quick cut at the throat where the gills meet. Flathead have a good blood supply in the gills; a slice here and putting the fish head-down will let it bleed out. Bleeding greatly improves the flavor and appearance of the fillets, as it removes blood from the meat. Some anglers skip bleeding smaller flathead, but for larger ones it’s highly recommended.
• On Ice Quickly: Immediately after killing and bleeding, put the flathead on ice or in an ice slurry. An ice slurry (ice + seawater mix) is ideal as it cools the fish rapidly and evenly. Flathead flesh can soften in heat, so chilling it preserves the firmness. Keep the fish cold until you’re ready to fillet. If you’re out on the water all day, a dedicated cooler with plenty of ice is crucial. In hot weather, you might even partially freeze some saltwater bottles to throw in the esky to maintain really low temps. The sooner you chill the fish, the better the eating.
• Cleaning and Filleting: Flathead are generally easy to fillet. They have a long body with a single line of pin-bones in the upper fillet portion that you can V-cut out. If unfamiliar, plenty of resources show how to fillet flathead. A tip: flathead have a very slimy skin, so be careful with your knife. Some people prefer to skin them, but the skin is actually fine to leave on for pan frying if scaled (scales are tiny though and many just skin the fillet). Do your cleaning on a non-porous surface and rinse fillets in cold saltwater or lightly salted water, then pat dry.
• Size for Table: Flathead in the 40–50 cm range tend to yield the best eating fillets – not too small, not too large. Larger flathead (70 cm+) often have courser flesh and may be breeders, so they’re better off released. Smaller ones (<35 cm) yield little meat and might be below legal size in many states anyway. Respect local size and bag limits (e.g., many states have minimum ~30–35 cm for flathead, with specific rules for dusky flathead slot limits). Only take what you need for a feed. Flathead fillets don’t freeze as well as some fish (they can dry out), so it’s better to eat them fresh if possible.
• Cooking: This isn’t a cooking guide, but suffice to say flathead’s mild, sweet flesh is extremely versatile. It’s beautiful simply beer-battered and fried (fish and chips with flathead is top-notch). It’s also great pan-seared with salt and pepper, or done in panko breadcrumbs. Because fillets are often thin at the tail, be careful not to overcook. They only need a couple minutes per side in a hot pan. The cheek meat of larger flathead is a delicacy too – a little nugget of meat behind the eye sockets; you can scoop it out with a spoon and fry it up as “flathead oysters”.
• Dispose of Waste Properly: If you’re cleaning fish at home or boat ramp, dispose of fish frames and guts in designated bins or back in deep water where allowed. Don’t dump innards near swim areas or leave them on the bank – it’s smelly and attracts pests.

By following these steps – quickly dispatching, bleeding, and icing – you’ll ensure your flathead catch is of the highest quality when it hits the plate. There’s something deeply satisfying about catching a fish, handling it with care, and later savoring it as a meal. Flathead’s flaky fillets will be your well-earned reward.

Sources: Flathead species facts and tips: fishingworld.com.au

fishesofaustralia.net.au

hookedupmagazine.com.au

tackletactics.com.au

fishingboating.world

ikijime.com, among others, have been incorporated to ensure accuracy and detail in this guide. Happy flathead fishing!